Paris may boast some of the world’s most splendid luxury hotels but it also has some wonderful bargains. Pleasant budget hotels are scattered through all the best areas, and with a general overhaul of much of Paris’s hotel offering, many have been recently renovated or even created, so it’s no longer a question of sagging beds and dubious wallpaper, but original designs and pristine bathrooms.
Even among more expensive hotels, many have several categories – and prices – of bedroom, largely based on size. As to prices, unlike the huge internet discounts sometimes found for expensive places, many of the best budget hotels find they don’t need to discount much, if at all.
When dining in Paris it pays to eat like a local and keep gourmet extravagances for occasions. The sheer range of restaurants is astonishing and everyone has a favourite inexpensive bistro or café-brasserie to pop into for a steak or a salad. The past 15 years has seen the rise of the bistronomique: gourmet bistros, with accomplished, updated bistro cooking for reasonable prices by chefs often trained at top establishments.
Hôtel Regyn's Montmartre
Solar Hôtel
The view from the Familia Hôtel
Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc
Mama Shelter
Hôtel Arvor Saint-Georges
Hotel Joyce
Hôtel Michelet Odéon
Breizh Cafe
Au Zaganin
Jeanne B
Chez Omar
L'Encrier
Le Bistro des Dames
L'Ecurie
Bistrot du Peintre
Michi
When dining in Paris it pays to eat like a local and keep gourmet extravagances for occasions. The sheer range of restaurants is astonishing and everyone has a favourite inexpensive bistro or café-brasserie to pop into for a steak or a salad. The past 15 years has seen the rise of the bistronomique: gourmet bistros, with accomplished, updated bistro cooking for reasonable prices by chefs often trained at top establishments.
Most restaurants have good-value lunch menus and it’s perfectly acceptable to order just two courses or to share a dessert. Paris tap water is free and perfectly drinkable (ask for a carafe d’eau), bread is always provided free, and service is always included in the bill, so it’s not necessary to tip (and most French don’t) unless you really want to.
Prices are for a double room in low season.
Hôtel Regyn's Montmartre 8/10
A great location if you want to leap straight out of bed and into the heart of the Montmartre action. Here the picturesque tourist Montmartre of cottages, artists' studios and steep staircases meandering up the hill meets hip Parisians' Montmartre, with the excellent food shops and lively bars of rue des Abbesses, like Le Sancerre and the Caves des Abbesses. The style is unpretentious and very Parisian behind its white stucco facade. The Montmartre-themed murals of the vineyard and place des Abbesses in the reception and living room are rather kitsch but all part of the charm. The compact yet cheerful rooms have all been attractively refurbished with classic French toile de jouy print fabric on the walls, and pristine white bathrooms that just about squeeze in all you need – some even have small baths.
Price: from £64, excluding breakfast (€8 extra)
Address: 18 place des Abbesses, 75018 Paris
A great location if you want to leap straight out of bed and into the heart of the Montmartre action. Here the picturesque tourist Montmartre of cottages, artists' studios and steep staircases meandering up the hill meets hip Parisians' Montmartre, with the excellent food shops and lively bars of rue des Abbesses, like Le Sancerre and the Caves des Abbesses. The style is unpretentious and very Parisian behind its white stucco facade. The Montmartre-themed murals of the vineyard and place des Abbesses in the reception and living room are rather kitsch but all part of the charm. The compact yet cheerful rooms have all been attractively refurbished with classic French toile de jouy print fabric on the walls, and pristine white bathrooms that just about squeeze in all you need – some even have small baths.
Price: from £64, excluding breakfast (€8 extra)
Address: 18 place des Abbesses, 75018 Paris
Hôtel Regyn's Montmartre
Solar Hôtel 6/10
In a residential part of Montparnasse that is agreeable if you want to experience real Parisians' Paris, with the rue Daguerre food shopping street just around the corner. Owner Franck Laval is ever-present and ready to explain his mission when not taking other hoteliers around to convert them. Young, friendly staff are all committed to the cause. There are internet computers for guests to use downstairs and bikes for guests to borrow. Once you get used to the slightly startling blue paintwork and blue carpets, the bedrooms prove simple but well thought out, with high-quality beds with white duvets and small desk; all have private bathroom with shower. You're encouraged to sort your own waste in the bins on the landing. Organic breakfast included in the price includes locally sourced apple juice rather than imported orange and excellent bread from nearby baker Moisan.
Price: from £65, including breakfast.
Address: 22 rue Boulard, 75014 Paris
In a residential part of Montparnasse that is agreeable if you want to experience real Parisians' Paris, with the rue Daguerre food shopping street just around the corner. Owner Franck Laval is ever-present and ready to explain his mission when not taking other hoteliers around to convert them. Young, friendly staff are all committed to the cause. There are internet computers for guests to use downstairs and bikes for guests to borrow. Once you get used to the slightly startling blue paintwork and blue carpets, the bedrooms prove simple but well thought out, with high-quality beds with white duvets and small desk; all have private bathroom with shower. You're encouraged to sort your own waste in the bins on the landing. Organic breakfast included in the price includes locally sourced apple juice rather than imported orange and excellent bread from nearby baker Moisan.
Price: from £65, including breakfast.
Address: 22 rue Boulard, 75014 Paris
Solar Hôtel
Familia Hôtel 7/10
Familia Hôtel is a long-standing budget classic offering a taste of traditional Left Bank Paris and a great central location. It's a short walk to St-Germain-des-Prés and Notre-Dame or across the river – via Ile St-Louis – to the Marais and Bastille. In a classic 1860s Haussmannian building with its golden stone facade and wrought-iron balconies, the Familia is not for those after cutting-edge design, but the cosy, traditional charm of a hotel that has been run by the same family for several generations. There are 30 air-conditioned rooms with carved cherrywood bedheads and wardrobes. Some have exposed stone walls, others have toile de jouy fabrics, and many have a sepia view of a Paris landmark painted over the bed. For breakfast, fresh croissants and crusty baguette for continental breakfast served in the cosy Victorian-style parlour.
Price: from £70, excluding breakfast
Address: 11 rue des Ecoles, 75005 Paris
Familia Hôtel is a long-standing budget classic offering a taste of traditional Left Bank Paris and a great central location. It's a short walk to St-Germain-des-Prés and Notre-Dame or across the river – via Ile St-Louis – to the Marais and Bastille. In a classic 1860s Haussmannian building with its golden stone facade and wrought-iron balconies, the Familia is not for those after cutting-edge design, but the cosy, traditional charm of a hotel that has been run by the same family for several generations. There are 30 air-conditioned rooms with carved cherrywood bedheads and wardrobes. Some have exposed stone walls, others have toile de jouy fabrics, and many have a sepia view of a Paris landmark painted over the bed. For breakfast, fresh croissants and crusty baguette for continental breakfast served in the cosy Victorian-style parlour.
Price: from £70, excluding breakfast
Address: 11 rue des Ecoles, 75005 Paris
The view from the Familia Hôtel
Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc 8/10
This hotel has an excellent Marais location, very central for numerous sights, yet tucked down a small street behind the place du Marché Ste-Catherine so that you 'd never find it if you didn't know if was there. Reception staff are informal and welcoming, and chambermaids appear to have been here for decades. The rooms have nearly all been redecorated recently with painted furniture, taffeta curtains, colour-washed walls and smart new bathrooms. A few have not and remain rustic and floral, with bathrooms that could one day star in a 70s pyschedelic revival. Most are good sized and several sleep three or four, which are popular with families, and there are also cots available. A simple breakfast is served downstairs.
Price: from £80, excluding breakfast (€8)
Address: 3 rue de Jarente, 75004
This hotel has an excellent Marais location, very central for numerous sights, yet tucked down a small street behind the place du Marché Ste-Catherine so that you 'd never find it if you didn't know if was there. Reception staff are informal and welcoming, and chambermaids appear to have been here for decades. The rooms have nearly all been redecorated recently with painted furniture, taffeta curtains, colour-washed walls and smart new bathrooms. A few have not and remain rustic and floral, with bathrooms that could one day star in a 70s pyschedelic revival. Most are good sized and several sleep three or four, which are popular with families, and there are also cots available. A simple breakfast is served downstairs.
Price: from £80, excluding breakfast (€8)
Address: 3 rue de Jarente, 75004
Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc
Mama Shelter 7/10
With interiors by Philippe Starck, location in an unlikely part of town, and buzzing bar and restaurant, Mama Shelter launched a new concept of hip design on a budget. This outpost has streetwise style, with lots of exposed raw and waxed concrete and graffitied blackboard ceilings, though what really makes this hotel is the buzzy open-plan ground floor that is all at once laidback lounge, cocktail bar, restaurant, club and concept store. For all its budget ethos, Mama pays plenty of attention to service: you can check in by machine if you wish, but there are also young enthusiastic staff at front desk, and concierges who can provide information as well as posting suggestions for events and exhibitions on the frosted mirrors on each landing. The buzzy restaurant serves French regional cuisine revisited by illustrious chef Alain Senderens, an excellent breakfast, plus a very popular brunch on Sunday.
Price: from £90, excluding breakfast (€16)
Address: 109 rue de Bagnolet, 75020
With interiors by Philippe Starck, location in an unlikely part of town, and buzzing bar and restaurant, Mama Shelter launched a new concept of hip design on a budget. This outpost has streetwise style, with lots of exposed raw and waxed concrete and graffitied blackboard ceilings, though what really makes this hotel is the buzzy open-plan ground floor that is all at once laidback lounge, cocktail bar, restaurant, club and concept store. For all its budget ethos, Mama pays plenty of attention to service: you can check in by machine if you wish, but there are also young enthusiastic staff at front desk, and concierges who can provide information as well as posting suggestions for events and exhibitions on the frosted mirrors on each landing. The buzzy restaurant serves French regional cuisine revisited by illustrious chef Alain Senderens, an excellent breakfast, plus a very popular brunch on Sunday.
Price: from £90, excluding breakfast (€16)
Address: 109 rue de Bagnolet, 75020
Mama Shelter
Hôtel Arvor Saint-Georges 9/10
This is a hotel that gets the home from home atmosphere just right, with its mixture of stylish and casual, a relaxed bar-cum-salon where you can browse art books or play table football, vases of fresh flowers, and curvy Bookworm shelves of paperbacks to borrow in the corridors – owner Nadine Flammarion is a member of the famous publishing family. Bedrooms are airy and pared back: think bright white with one contrasting wall (apple green, sludge brown, cherry red, etc), personalised with eclectic lights, vintage chests of drawers or dressing tables found at the fleamarket and original photos. Most have good sized bathrooms with a tub and classy Fragonard bath products.
Price: from £90, excluding breakfast (€14)
Address: 8 rue Laferrière, 75009
This is a hotel that gets the home from home atmosphere just right, with its mixture of stylish and casual, a relaxed bar-cum-salon where you can browse art books or play table football, vases of fresh flowers, and curvy Bookworm shelves of paperbacks to borrow in the corridors – owner Nadine Flammarion is a member of the famous publishing family. Bedrooms are airy and pared back: think bright white with one contrasting wall (apple green, sludge brown, cherry red, etc), personalised with eclectic lights, vintage chests of drawers or dressing tables found at the fleamarket and original photos. Most have good sized bathrooms with a tub and classy Fragonard bath products.
Price: from £90, excluding breakfast (€14)
Address: 8 rue Laferrière, 75009
Hôtel Arvor Saint-Georges
Hôtel Joyce 7/10
Architect Philippe Maidenberg has been gradually making his mark on Paris hotels, combining all you need in the way of air conditioning and i-pod docks with quirky details. The reception desk is made of stacked-up Eiffel Towers and fibre optics sparkle in the parquet. The 44 rooms wittily rework Haussmannian style so that they are contemporary yet distinctly Parisian. Buffet breakfast served in the lovely glazed conservatory/lounge; much of the produce is organic. The hotel is not licensed but you can help yourself to free coffee, tea and soft drinks all day.
Price: from £95, including breakfast
Address: 29 rue La Bruyère, 75009
Architect Philippe Maidenberg has been gradually making his mark on Paris hotels, combining all you need in the way of air conditioning and i-pod docks with quirky details. The reception desk is made of stacked-up Eiffel Towers and fibre optics sparkle in the parquet. The 44 rooms wittily rework Haussmannian style so that they are contemporary yet distinctly Parisian. Buffet breakfast served in the lovely glazed conservatory/lounge; much of the produce is organic. The hotel is not licensed but you can help yourself to free coffee, tea and soft drinks all day.
Price: from £95, including breakfast
Address: 29 rue La Bruyère, 75009
Hotel Joyce
Hôtel Michelet Odéon 8/10
Curiously some of Paris's best-value hotels can be found in prime locations, the Michelet Odéon is situated on one of the city's most beautiful squares, overlooking the lovely 18th-century Théâtre de l'Odéon. Behind the period facade, the interior is fresh and contemporary, with sophisticated finishes and warm colours. Rooms were all redone in 2008 with natural wood furniture, accent colours, amusing tiger-stripe carpets and well-lit pristine modern bathrooms. A good buffet breakfast is served in a bright open plan room on the ground floor, though it is relatively pricey compared to the rooms.
Price: from £96, excluding breakfast (from €10)
Address: 9 place de l’Odéon, 75006
Curiously some of Paris's best-value hotels can be found in prime locations, the Michelet Odéon is situated on one of the city's most beautiful squares, overlooking the lovely 18th-century Théâtre de l'Odéon. Behind the period facade, the interior is fresh and contemporary, with sophisticated finishes and warm colours. Rooms were all redone in 2008 with natural wood furniture, accent colours, amusing tiger-stripe carpets and well-lit pristine modern bathrooms. A good buffet breakfast is served in a bright open plan room on the ground floor, though it is relatively pricey compared to the rooms.
Price: from £96, excluding breakfast (from €10)
Address: 9 place de l’Odéon, 75006
Hôtel Michelet Odéon
Where to eat for £20 or less
Prices are per person for two courses in the evening and excluding wine unless stated otherwise.
Breizh Cafe
Breizh Cafe
This is the place that made the pancake gourmet, and although not particularly budget as crêperies go, it’s streets ahead of the competition in terms of quality. While crêperies are often dismissed as restaurants for children, here the setting is distressed beach hut and the clientele fashionable Marais. The choice of savoury galettes and sweet crêpes ranges from classic complète (egg, cheese and ham) to imaginative creations.
Address: 109 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003
Contact: 0033 1 42 72 13 77; breizhcafe.com
Getting there: Metro St Paul
Opening times: Wed-Sun, 11.30am-11pm
Price: pancakes from around €6
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French, vegetarian
Reservations: recommended
This is the place that made the pancake gourmet, and although not particularly budget as crêperies go, it’s streets ahead of the competition in terms of quality. While crêperies are often dismissed as restaurants for children, here the setting is distressed beach hut and the clientele fashionable Marais. The choice of savoury galettes and sweet crêpes ranges from classic complète (egg, cheese and ham) to imaginative creations.
Address: 109 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003
Contact: 0033 1 42 72 13 77; breizhcafe.com
Getting there: Metro St Paul
Opening times: Wed-Sun, 11.30am-11pm
Price: pancakes from around €6
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French, vegetarian
Reservations: recommended
Au Zaganin
Au Zaganin
Just off avenue Trudaine in arty-bourgeois SoPi (South Pigalle), Au Zaganin was once a seedy dive that has developed a local following after being resuscitated in a neo-40s ambience of banquettes, mosaic floor and changing art shows. The excellent value three-course menu (until 9pm) impresses with real cooking, in dishes like red mullet on a ratatouille-style bed of peppers and aubergine, veal kidneys in mustard sauce, and flambéed crêpes suzette. The short but well selected wine list focuses on organic wines. Au Zaganin is particularly popular for brunch at weekends, which means service then can be rather rushed.
Address: 81 rue de Rochechouart, 75009
Contact: 0033 1 48 78 12 70; auzaganin.com
Getting there: Metro Anvers
Opening times: Tue-Fri, midday-2.30pm, 7pm-10pm; Sat, 11am-3.30pm, 7pm-10pm; Sun, 11am-3.30pm
Price: set-price menus from €19.50 for brunch, €15 for lunch, €19.50 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: not necessary
Just off avenue Trudaine in arty-bourgeois SoPi (South Pigalle), Au Zaganin was once a seedy dive that has developed a local following after being resuscitated in a neo-40s ambience of banquettes, mosaic floor and changing art shows. The excellent value three-course menu (until 9pm) impresses with real cooking, in dishes like red mullet on a ratatouille-style bed of peppers and aubergine, veal kidneys in mustard sauce, and flambéed crêpes suzette. The short but well selected wine list focuses on organic wines. Au Zaganin is particularly popular for brunch at weekends, which means service then can be rather rushed.
Address: 81 rue de Rochechouart, 75009
Contact: 0033 1 48 78 12 70; auzaganin.com
Getting there: Metro Anvers
Opening times: Tue-Fri, midday-2.30pm, 7pm-10pm; Sat, 11am-3.30pm, 7pm-10pm; Sun, 11am-3.30pm
Price: set-price menus from €19.50 for brunch, €15 for lunch, €19.50 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: not necessary
Jeanne B
Jeanne B
This is the second of the casual all-day, eaterie-delis opened by the owners of venerable bistro Astier. It's a happy arrival on the street that winds up Montmartre hill, with a lovely welcome from young chef Cyril Boulet, who mans the counter. Spit-roast Challans chicken is the house classic, but you can also go modern and gourmet with a verrine of snails or a luxury lobster sandwich, along with roast lamb and assorted pies from a blackboard choice that changes every week. It has a deli counter and grocery section at the front, where you can take away charcuterie, cheese and homemade desserts and madeleines.
Address: 61 rue Lepic, 75018
Contact: 0033 1 42 51 17 53; jeanne-b-comestibles.com
Getting there: Metro Abbesses
Opening times: daily, 9.30am-10.30pm
Price: set-price menus from €15 for lunch, €23 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French, quick bites
Reservations: not necessary
This is the second of the casual all-day, eaterie-delis opened by the owners of venerable bistro Astier. It's a happy arrival on the street that winds up Montmartre hill, with a lovely welcome from young chef Cyril Boulet, who mans the counter. Spit-roast Challans chicken is the house classic, but you can also go modern and gourmet with a verrine of snails or a luxury lobster sandwich, along with roast lamb and assorted pies from a blackboard choice that changes every week. It has a deli counter and grocery section at the front, where you can take away charcuterie, cheese and homemade desserts and madeleines.
Address: 61 rue Lepic, 75018
Contact: 0033 1 42 51 17 53; jeanne-b-comestibles.com
Getting there: Metro Abbesses
Opening times: daily, 9.30am-10.30pm
Price: set-price menus from €15 for lunch, €23 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French, quick bites
Reservations: not necessary
Chez Omar
Chez Omar
I've been coming to Chez Omar ever since I arrived in Paris. It's a favourite of mine for its friendly waiters, vintage bistro setting, cheerfully eclectic diners – Marais gallerists, fashionistas, gay couples, families – and, of course, the couscous. There are no elaborate tagines here, just well-prepared couscous, with a choice of mechoui, grilled lamb kebabs, merguez sausage or vegetarian. I usually go for the kebabs, with a big vat of stewed vegetables, harissa if you want, and a platter of couscous grain. Finish with Oriental pastries, or strawberries and cream, and mint tea. They don't take reservations, so arrive early for dinner if you don't want to queue in the street.
Address: 47 rue de Bretagne, 75003
Contact: 0033 1 42 72 36 26 (no website)
Getting there: Metro St-Sébastien-Froissart
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-2.30pm, 7pm-11.30pm; Sun, 7pm-11.30pm
Price: couscous from €12
Payment type: credit cards not accepted
Cuisine: North African
Reservations: not possible
I've been coming to Chez Omar ever since I arrived in Paris. It's a favourite of mine for its friendly waiters, vintage bistro setting, cheerfully eclectic diners – Marais gallerists, fashionistas, gay couples, families – and, of course, the couscous. There are no elaborate tagines here, just well-prepared couscous, with a choice of mechoui, grilled lamb kebabs, merguez sausage or vegetarian. I usually go for the kebabs, with a big vat of stewed vegetables, harissa if you want, and a platter of couscous grain. Finish with Oriental pastries, or strawberries and cream, and mint tea. They don't take reservations, so arrive early for dinner if you don't want to queue in the street.
Address: 47 rue de Bretagne, 75003
Contact: 0033 1 42 72 36 26 (no website)
Getting there: Metro St-Sébastien-Froissart
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-2.30pm, 7pm-11.30pm; Sun, 7pm-11.30pm
Price: couscous from €12
Payment type: credit cards not accepted
Cuisine: North African
Reservations: not possible
L'Encrier
L'Encrier
Tucked just behind the Promenade Plantée viaduct walk in the historic furniture makers' district of the Faubourg St-Antoine, the friendly, cooperative-run L'Encrier has been one of Paris's best-kept, budget secrets for 20 years. An essentially local crowd and a few in-the-know visitors squeeze in around its simple wooden tables, drawn by the remarkable-value menus and attractive beamed setting. The kitchen, visible behind the white counter, sends out trustworthy, no-nonsense French cuisine with southwestern touches, such as pear with roquefort, duck confit and goose magret, and virtually everyone ends with the excellent chocolate profiteroles.
Address: 55 rue Traversière, 75012
Contact: 0033 1 44 68 08 16; restaurant-encrier-paris.fr
Getting there: Metro Ledru-Rollin
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-2.30pm, 7.30pm-11pm
Price: set-price menu from €15 for lunch, €18 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: recommended
Tucked just behind the Promenade Plantée viaduct walk in the historic furniture makers' district of the Faubourg St-Antoine, the friendly, cooperative-run L'Encrier has been one of Paris's best-kept, budget secrets for 20 years. An essentially local crowd and a few in-the-know visitors squeeze in around its simple wooden tables, drawn by the remarkable-value menus and attractive beamed setting. The kitchen, visible behind the white counter, sends out trustworthy, no-nonsense French cuisine with southwestern touches, such as pear with roquefort, duck confit and goose magret, and virtually everyone ends with the excellent chocolate profiteroles.
Address: 55 rue Traversière, 75012
Contact: 0033 1 44 68 08 16; restaurant-encrier-paris.fr
Getting there: Metro Ledru-Rollin
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-2.30pm, 7.30pm-11pm
Price: set-price menu from €15 for lunch, €18 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: recommended
Le Bistro des Dames
Le Bistro des Dames
A clutter of paintings and posters, and the treat of a hidden, overgrown tropical garden courtyard at the rear, are all part of the aura at this bistro adjoining the quirkily bohemian Hôtel Eldorado in burgeoning Batignolles. A local arty set pops in for the laid-back, friendly atmosphere, home cooking and wines from small producers. The speciality is slow-cooked stews, perhaps tender pork cheeks or lamb navarin with seasonal veg, although you'll also find a fish of the day, big main-course salads, and good desserts. In keeping with the mood, service is leisurely.
Address: 18 rue des Dames, 75017
Contact: 0033 1 45 22 13 42; eldoradohotel.fr
Getting there: Metro Place de Clichy
Opening times: Mon-Fri, noon-3pm, 7pm-2am; Sat, Sun, noon-2am (last service for food 11.30pm)
Price: set-price menu from €21 for lunch and dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: not possible
A clutter of paintings and posters, and the treat of a hidden, overgrown tropical garden courtyard at the rear, are all part of the aura at this bistro adjoining the quirkily bohemian Hôtel Eldorado in burgeoning Batignolles. A local arty set pops in for the laid-back, friendly atmosphere, home cooking and wines from small producers. The speciality is slow-cooked stews, perhaps tender pork cheeks or lamb navarin with seasonal veg, although you'll also find a fish of the day, big main-course salads, and good desserts. In keeping with the mood, service is leisurely.
Address: 18 rue des Dames, 75017
Contact: 0033 1 45 22 13 42; eldoradohotel.fr
Getting there: Metro Place de Clichy
Opening times: Mon-Fri, noon-3pm, 7pm-2am; Sat, Sun, noon-2am (last service for food 11.30pm)
Price: set-price menu from €21 for lunch and dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: not possible
L'Ecurie
L'Ecurie
Just the answer when you're after a juicy steak, bossy service and lots of atmosphere. The ground floor was once stables (spot the hay rack along one wall), and although there are a few tables outside in summer, it's best in winter, when you descend the perilous staircase into ancient vaulted cellars. Feast in flickering candlelight on the good-value, three-course menu, with chargrilled steaks and homemade chips. Despite being in a touristed part of town, L'Ecurie caters to as many Parisians as visitors from out of town. It's near the Sorbonne and Lycée Henri IV, so very popular with celebrating students.
Address: 2 rue Leplace, 75005
Contact: 0033 1 46 33 68 49
Getting there: Metro Maubert-Mutualité
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-2pm, 7pm-11pm
Price: set-price menu from €17 for lunch and dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: not necessary
Just the answer when you're after a juicy steak, bossy service and lots of atmosphere. The ground floor was once stables (spot the hay rack along one wall), and although there are a few tables outside in summer, it's best in winter, when you descend the perilous staircase into ancient vaulted cellars. Feast in flickering candlelight on the good-value, three-course menu, with chargrilled steaks and homemade chips. Despite being in a touristed part of town, L'Ecurie caters to as many Parisians as visitors from out of town. It's near the Sorbonne and Lycée Henri IV, so very popular with celebrating students.
Address: 2 rue Leplace, 75005
Contact: 0033 1 46 33 68 49
Getting there: Metro Maubert-Mutualité
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-2pm, 7pm-11pm
Price: set-price menu from €17 for lunch and dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French
Reservations: not necessary
Bistrot du Peintre
Bistrot du Peintre
This listed, art nouveau café-bistro has a gorgeous 1902 décor of sinuous woodwork and tiled, allegorical figures of spring and summer. It is much loved by a laidback Bastille crowd for its satisfying, inexpensive cuisine. The choice goes from utterly trad snails or oeuf meurette (egg poached in red wine), steak tartare and some southwestern French touches – my daughter's a fan of the confit de canard – to inventive salads and creative tomato Tatin with red pepper sorbet, so there's sure to be something to suit different tastes. All-day service is very useful when you’re on holiday. Try to be seated on the more atmospheric ground floor rather than upstairs.
Address: 116 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75011
Contact: 0033 1 47 00 34 39; bistrotdupeintre.com
Getting there: Metro Ledru-Rollin
Opening times: daily, 7am-2am (food served midday-midnight)
Price: lunch and dinner around €23
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French, quick bites
Reservations: not necessary
This listed, art nouveau café-bistro has a gorgeous 1902 décor of sinuous woodwork and tiled, allegorical figures of spring and summer. It is much loved by a laidback Bastille crowd for its satisfying, inexpensive cuisine. The choice goes from utterly trad snails or oeuf meurette (egg poached in red wine), steak tartare and some southwestern French touches – my daughter's a fan of the confit de canard – to inventive salads and creative tomato Tatin with red pepper sorbet, so there's sure to be something to suit different tastes. All-day service is very useful when you’re on holiday. Try to be seated on the more atmospheric ground floor rather than upstairs.
Address: 116 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75011
Contact: 0033 1 47 00 34 39; bistrotdupeintre.com
Getting there: Metro Ledru-Rollin
Opening times: daily, 7am-2am (food served midday-midnight)
Price: lunch and dinner around €23
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: French, quick bites
Reservations: not necessary
Michi
Michi
Located in the heart of Paris's Little Japan, Michi is a tiny, canteen-like hole in the wall, indicated only by a fish and the word sushi on the facade. It was recommended by a Japanese friend, for some of the best, authentic, and least expensive, sushi and sashimi along rue Sainte-Anne. If you're lucky, bag one of the half-a-dozen places along the counter where you can watch the chef at work, otherwise you'll be squashed into the tiny cellar. There are good-value formules, but go à la carte if you want rarer offerings such as sea urchin and eel.
Address: 58 bis rue Sainte-Anne, 75002
Contact: 0033 1 40 20 49 93
Getting there: Metro Pyramides
Opening times: Tue-Sun, midday-2pm, 7.30pm-10.30pm
Price: set-price menus from €14 for lunch, €23 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood
Reservations: recommended
Located in the heart of Paris's Little Japan, Michi is a tiny, canteen-like hole in the wall, indicated only by a fish and the word sushi on the facade. It was recommended by a Japanese friend, for some of the best, authentic, and least expensive, sushi and sashimi along rue Sainte-Anne. If you're lucky, bag one of the half-a-dozen places along the counter where you can watch the chef at work, otherwise you'll be squashed into the tiny cellar. There are good-value formules, but go à la carte if you want rarer offerings such as sea urchin and eel.
Address: 58 bis rue Sainte-Anne, 75002
Contact: 0033 1 40 20 49 93
Getting there: Metro Pyramides
Opening times: Tue-Sun, midday-2pm, 7.30pm-10.30pm
Price: set-price menus from €14 for lunch, €23 for dinner
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood
Reservations: recommended
