Archive for 2017-05-14

Home Archive for 2017-05-14

Nakon što smo odabrali rutu i odradili prioritete što ćemo vidjeti krenuli smo u "osvajanje" Muzeja.

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Kako ući i doći do Vatikanskih Muzeja sam pisao na https://dnevniksaputovanja.blogspot.hr/2017/05/kako-uci-u-vatikanski-muzeji.html
Bitno je napomenuti da se odmah nakon ulaska i nakon prvog uspona skrene lijevo,malo još dva odvojena stubišta i opet lijevo te se uđe u Egipatski muzej,Vatikanskih Muzeja.
Bila je poprilična gužva pa smo se nekako progurali na brzinu da dobijemo na vremenu.
Ako se pusti kroz gužvu poprilično se vremena može izgubiti a ako i dobit ako se probije malo kroz gužvu.

Sam Egipatski muzej je uredio o.Ungarelli,koji je zapravo i jedan od prvih talijanskih egiptologa.

Dvorane II. i III.čuvaju još uvijek izgled iz XIX.stoljeća gdje se vidi imitacija alabastera i egipatski krajolici.

Dvorana I. podsjeća na egipatsku grobnicu.
Stećci i natpisi su iz različitih razdoblja,a posebnu pozornost valja skrenuti na lijepo figuriranu glavu faraona Mentuhotepa(kraj trećega tisućljeća prije Krista).

Dvorana II. sadrži sarkofage i mumije,a u izlozima se nalaze razni predmeti korišteni prigodom obreda ukopa.

Dvorana III. je više iz rimske epohe( I. i II.stoljeće) i čuva imitacije kipova iz Egipta.

Najveći dio statua dolazi zapravo iz Hadrijanove vile( koja se nalazi u Tivoliju),kao što je to slučaj s poprsjem Izide i monumentalnog kipa Antinuousa u liku Ozirisa.

U Dvorani IV.nalaze se kipovi svećenika.Udja_Hor-res-ne,natpis govori o perzijskome osvajanju Egipta 525.godine prije Krista.

U Dvorani V.pozornost privlači izlog s lijepim portretom iz Staroga kraljevstva(2660.-1650.godine prije Krista),nevjerojatnih detalja i očuvanih boja.
Tu je i kip kraljice Tuije,majke Ramzesa II.(vjerojatno iz vremena kada se izraelski norod još nalazio u Egiptu) sa početka XIII.stoljeća prije Krista.

Tri kolosalna kipa u ružićastu granitu predstavljaju Ptolmeja Filadelfa(283.-246.,prije Krista),zaručnicu sestru Arsionu i njihovu sestru Filoteru.

Na terasi se nalazi skupina kipova:božica Sekmet i lavlja glava s imenom Amenofisa III.(XVII.dinastija-1403.-1365.godina prije Krista) te dva ležeća lava s imenom faraona Nekteneba(387.-360.godine prije Krista).

U Dvorani VI.djela su iz grčko-rimsko-koptske epohe.

U Dvorani VII.čuvaju se zbirka Carla Grassija,dar papi Piju XII.(predmeti različita podrijekla:franačkoga,grčkoga,koptskoga i islamskoga).

Dvorana VIII.sadrži starine iz Palestine.

Avorana IX.sadrži starine iz Mezopotamije.

Tada se izbije u hodnik,te se spušta desno,stubištem i dolazi u zbirku pod imenom Muzej Chiarmonti.
A o njemu u nastavku.

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Kako sam već napisao,najbolja početna pozicija za odlazak u Vatikanske muzeje je od poznatog obeliska na Tgu s.Petra te se kreće desno pokraj fontane i kroz kolonade,te se dođe na ulicu.

Prođe se kroz lukove zida koji povezuje Vatikan s Anđeoskom tvrđavom i nakon nekih tridesetak metara s lijeve strane, u ulici Via di Porta Angelica,ugleda se kolni ulaz u Vatikan.

Tu se može vidjeti Švicarska garda odjevene u plave,suvremenije odore,od onih koje znamo,koja čuva ulaz. Mi nastavljamo slijediti zidine. Najprije se dođe do trga Risorgimento, no tu se ne zaustavlja,već se nastavlja a skrenuvši lijevo uz ciglaste zidine. Ako malo podigne se pogled može se vidjeti preko bedema zgrade koje su dio Vatikanskih muzeja.

Treba prijeći još nekih stotinjak metara,pa mali uspon i dodatnih pedesetak metara ulicom koja se zove Viale del Vaticano. Dakle,od obeliska do ulaska u Muzeje ima oko tristotinjak metara.

Svakako je za napomenuti da se nerijetko pred Muzejima nalazi poduži(ponekad i preko 100 m dug) red ljudi koji čekaju ulazak(i to bilo ljeto ili zima, kiša ili sunce),mada je ipak lakše kartu kupiti on line te tako uću u određeno vijeme bez gužve.

Današnji ulaz u Vatikanske Muzeje obilježen je portalom sa bastionima iz XVII.stoljeća.Kipovi su to koje je izradio Pietro Melndri a predstavljaju Michelangela i Raffaella .Oni drže grb pape Pia XI.

Povjerivši zadaću arhitektu Giuseppeu Momu 1932.godine ostvarena je podjela na dva kata koja omogućuje ulaz iz grada. S prizemnog dijela u razgledavanje se muzeja može krenuti ili dizalom ili zanimljivim zmijolikim,dvosmjernim dvorazinskim stubištem8izveo ga je Momo i kipar Antonio Maraini). No, valja napomenuti da se i na ulazu i u muzejima važno pridržavati naputaka te slijediti smjerokaze,jer se ponekad,zbog čestih obnavljanja prostora ili posebnih radova vezanih uz izloške,neke zbirke zatvaraju ili se put na nekimdionicama, a zbog čestih obnavljanja premješta ili zbog sigurnosnih mjera kao kada smo mi posjetili nije moblo iz Sikstinske kapele u baziliku.

Primjerice prije stubišta na gornjoj razini možete vidjeti mozaike iz rimskog doba iz I-II.stoljeća.

Ako se u Muzejima ostavljaju stvari,tada je potrebno i planirati povratak na ulaz u Muzeje.

To je potrebno spomenuti ,budući da se kako rekoh iz Muzeja može izaći na Trg.svPetra izravno iz Sikstinske kapelice koja je na kraju obilaska. A time se skraćuje put povratka na glavni ulaz,no taj ulaz je bio zatvoren za našeg posjeta iz sigurnosnih razloga.

Slova na karti muzeja a označena različitim bojama A,B,C,D označuju četiri različita ruta kretanja kroz muzeje.

Put A najkraći je,nismo ga prošli a put D najduži,nismo ni njega.

Također je važno napomenuti ukoliko se netko u toj silnoj gužvi nekako izgubi ili izgubi grupu treba slijediti samo jedno od tih slova, a po mogućnosti onaj najkraći, put A, te se tako dođe do izlaza i tamo čeka grupu ili pojedince. To je nešto što treba svakako dogovoriti prije ulaska.

Sam posjet je moguće kombinirati naaznačene putove, kako bih se vidjelo što je moguće više,no za to treba biti unaprijed pripremljen ili imati vodića, koji nisu baš ni jeftini. Valja napomenuti da i ovdje napomenuti plan obilaska ne vrijedi uvijek jer kako rekoh česta unutrašnja preuređenja mogu poremetiti tijek hoda posjetitelja,ali podaci će sigurno umnogome koristiti.

Na tome međuprostoru,na kojemu se posjetitelju pruža užitak pogleda na kupolu bazilike sv.Petra,treba odlučiti na koji put treba ići. Gledajući prema kupoli,desno se nalazi Pinakoteka, prije ulaza u nju mala je terasa na kojoj se nalazi mala fontana s pitkom vodom i s koje se silazi u restauraciju Muzeja. Lijevo je "Atrij četiriju ulaza" i "Dvorište češera"

Kroz staklena vrata i zid može se promtrati ili pak ući u dvorište Cortile delle Corazze na kojemu se nalazi postolje Antoninova stupa. Na tome se postolju nalazio stup iz egipatskog granita visok 14,75 metara, podignut oko 161.godine na Montecitoriju u čast cara Antonina Pija. Podignuli su ga sinovi Marko Aurelije i Lucije Vero. Godine 1703.je prebačen ovamo, ali danas je vidljiva samo baza.
Natpisi posvećuju pozornost apoteozi Antonina i Faustine, a vidljive su i pogrebne scene.

U zadnjem predvorju,prije ulaska u muzeje u strogome smislu, stoje poprsje, mozaici i četiri božanstva koje označuju vjetar, a potječu iz II.III.stoljeća poslije Krista.
Ranije je sve to bilo smješteno u Lateranu i u Raffaellovim stanzma.

Desno se može odmah ući u Pinakoteku ,ali mi se činilo da je lakše nju ostaviti za kraj obilaska kao što smo i mi.

Slijedi Atrio dei Quattro cancelli(Atrij četiriju ulaza) u neoklasičnom stilu.

To je djelo Giuseppea Camprosea iz 1792.-1793.godine, a taj je atrij bio izvorni ulaz u Muzeje na koji se ulazilo od strane Vatikanskih vrtova. Osam statua koje se tu nalaze je iz vremena Carstva (I.-II.stoljeće.)

U produžetku se nalazi Cortile della pigna(Dvorište češera) koje je dobilo ime po brončanu češeru(plodu pinije)koji se nekada nalazio pred starom bazilikom sv.Petra.
Sada je smješten u nišu koju je projektirao donato Bramante a doradio Michelangelo.
Konačno je ostvaranje izradio Pirro Lifori( u vrijeme pontifikata Pija IV.).

Među zanimljivostima se pripovijeda i to da Dante spominje taj češer i svome svima poznatom književnom djelu, kada opisuje kiklope i njihovo izduženo lice, a prema veličini toga češera neki su matematičari željeli izračunati visinu i veličinu kiklopa.

Dvorište je okruženo zgradama,ali to je samo polovina prostora Muzeja,jer se u dijelu dvorišne pregrade nalazi u prednjem dijelu Novo krilo(Braccio nuovo), a malo dalje i druga pregrada u kojoj se,kao i ispod nje,nalazi Vatikanska biblioteka, dok se iza nje nalazi još jedno dvorište jednake veličine.

Vratiti se valja zatim prema atriju četiriju ulaza i desno se popeti stubištem (Scala Simonetti).

To stubište, zajedno s dvoranom(Sala a Croce Greca),nadahnuto je graditeljskim dostignućima kakva se vide u rimskim termama poput Karakalinih o kojima sam pisao.

Stubište je s kraja XVIII.stoljeća,a dobilo je ime po arhitektu Simonettiju.

Rue Cler

Rue Cler is a street market in the 7th arrondissement. One of the most convenient market streets in Paris that is minutes away from the Eiffel Tower. The market is a pedestrian street with shops that spill onto the road. Here you can find a wonderful selection of speciality food such as patisserie, butchers, delicatessens, cheese specialists, fishmongers, greengrocers, chocolate shops and cafes. This is a great place to build up a picnic. Get some baguettes, cuts of meats, cheese to build a sandwich that you can dine under the shadows of the Eiffel Tower or on Trocadero.

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You can even get flowers for your love ones. They are opened all day from Tuesday to Fridays and in the morning during the weekends. Go early on Sunday to avoid the crowds. My family bought a couple of sandwiches. There are various cafes that offer set menus too!

Rue Cler

Check out the nice looking cherries from Top Halles.

Les Floralies is a nice flower vendor with a good selection of green plants.

La Fromagerie

You can get some nice cheese from La Fromagerie.

Tour Eiffel behind the scenes tour

Finally, we walked to the Eiffel Tour for the second time, after a long 2km walk from the Musee D'Orsay. It was definitely a slow and relaxing walk. Arriving by foot definitely avoided all the touts which you will meet on the way out.

Recommendation of Hotels in Paris

The Eiffel Tower is a global cultural icon of France and one of the most recognizable structures in the world. Being the tallest structure in Paris, you have to visit it! It towers at 324 meters, roughly the height of an 81-story building. Unfortunately, the Paris Museum Pass does not include the Eiffel Tower. Do remember to buy your tickets in advance for the Eiffel Tower to avoid the lines. You can get the tickets 3 months in advance. It will cost you 9.00€ (adult) to get to the 2nd floor and 15€(adult) to get to the summit. By the time We are checked the online tickets, the tickets were all snapped up! I was worried that We are will have to queue up for the tickets on the day itself. Many suggested that we are arrive early to beat the lines or take the stairs to the 2nd floor for 5€ (710 steps). Eventually, I found an alternate option. I decided to do an Eiffel Tower behind the scenes tour ( Adult, 22.90€ / Child 19.90€)! The tour is conducted by Cultival and includes tickets up to the 2nd floor. There are perks when you follow such tours as you get to skip the lines! Other highlights include the little-known sites such as the WWI underground military bunker located beneath the Champ de Mars, the Eiffel Tower's engine room and views from the rooftop terrace of Alain Ducasse's restaurant - Le Jules Verne.

We were led to the underground military bunker to be told the history of the tower. The Eiffel Tower was build for the World's Fair to celebrate the centennial of the French Revolution. However, the tower was to be torn down after its 20 years lease as it was never intended to be a permanent structure. Many disliked the Tower design. The conversion of the Eiffel Tower into a radio transmission tower saved it from demolition! The bunker had thick metal doors with posters sharing stories of the World War 1. The Tower had radio jammers in World War 1 which were used to jam German radio broadcasts and after World War1, was used for civilian broadcasting. A fun fact would be that the Eiffel Tower broadcasted English Queen Elizabeth II's coronation throughout France!

The WWI underground military bunker located beneath the Champ de Mars
The Eiffel Tower has to be painted with 50 to 60 tons of paint every seven years to protect it from rust. Check out the layers of paint from the picture below. The height of the Eiffel Tower varies by 15cm due to temperature. The Tower is painted darker at the top and gradually lighter at the bottom!

The different coats of paint
Parts of the lift that brings you from the groun to the second level. Building the lifts was an engineering feat as the tracks had to over come the changing angles. below is a photo of a chariot/carriage which slides back and forth, pulling and releasing the cables that eventually moves the lifts.

The Chariot which is one of the machinery that powers the hydraulic life.
A picture of how the lift works. The cables well maintained. One interesting story of the elevator is that they were cut during the WWII so that Nazis could not use the tower.

A sign to summaries everything
This is one of the electric elevators which brings you form the 2nd floor to the top floor. Unfortunately, the queue for the lift to the summit was ridiculously long and our tour guide "hinted" that it wasn't worth the views unless you really want to see Gustave Eiffel's office and a champagne bar which sells champagne between 12€ to 21€.

The view from the rooftop terrace of Alain Ducasse's restaurant.
We were brought to the top of Alain Ducasse's restaurant. Check out the junction of structure struts and the Seine River further out.

Junction of structure struts.
Vintage coin operated binoculars on the Eiffel Tower.

Vintage coin operated binoculars

Looking up from the second floor of the Eiffel Tower. It is definitely a symbol of modern science. In fact, the tower has 72 French scientists, engineers and mathematicians engraved in recognition of their contribution.

The magnificent Eiffel Tower Structure

After the tour, we spent sometime to take in the views of Paris before heading across a bridge to Trocadero Square. This is said to be the best view of the Eiffel Tower. However, there are plenty of African men selling Eiffel Tower key ring which they sell at 5 for a euro. The police in France are doing their best to stop such street vendors. Although I took many pictures of the city, I did not take any of these people. -_- Just ignore them and they won't be bugging you to purchase their "glow in the dark" Eiffel Tower key chains. We board the train (M6, 3 stops) from Trocadero station to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile where we visited the Arc de Triomphe.

The Eiffel Tower

Arc de Triomphe

The final Paris Attraction for the day would be the Arc de Triomphe. It is situated in the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle traffic circles. A memorial in honor of the French soldiers lost in the Napoleonic and French Revolutionary wars. It is probably the second most recognised structure in Paris. The Arc de Triomphe is 49m high, 45 m wide. The names of 128 battles fought by the French Republic and Napoleon between 1792 and 1814 are engraved on the walls under the vault. The tickets cost 9.50€ for an adult but is included in the Paris Museum Pass. There is no queues for this attraction and it has one of the best views in Paris. 12 Prestigious avenues radiate out from the arch which allows for neat rows of buildings. Please be aware that you will have to climb 284 steps, or take an elevator to the mid-level and climb 46 stairs to the top. Visitors with limited mobility will have to reconsider this monument as you must climb the remaining 46 steps.

Arc de Triomphe

Check out the stairs. They aren't as bad as the Notre Dame Towers or Sacre Coeur. There are two stair cases where one goes up and the other goes down. You could take the elevator if you really need it. Just mention that you have a bad knee. ;) But a little exercise won't hurt as you will be rewarded with amazing views of Paris!

The Stairs from the bottom to the top.

And as promised, the amazing view you will see from the top of the Arc de Triomphe. You can see the Champs Elysees towards the Lourve, over the Place de la Concorde and La Grande Arche de la Defense.

La Grande Arche de la Defense

What you need to know:
- Rue Cler is a street market near the Eiffel Tour. Most of the stores open from Tuesday - Sunday. All day on weekdays and the mornings on weekends.

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- The Eiffel Tower tickets are released 3 months in advance but you will have to purchase them at least 2 months in advance. Otherwise, consider arriving early or taking a tour or the stairs.
- Arc de Triomphe has one of the best views in Paris where 12 streets converge at this circle!
Arc de Triomphe is at the west end of the Avenue des Champs-Elysees. A shopping avenue like Oxford St in London and Orchard Rd in Singapore.

The Eiffel Tower offers spectacular views of Paris.

These five tips will secure you a spot at the top of Paris' most famous landmark.

If you’ve never been to Paris before, or even if you have, you need to visit the Eiffel Tower, at least once. It may seem touristy and cliched but once you reach the top of this iconic steel wonder, you'll see why it's the most visited paid monument in the world. Unfortunately, the wait to get in can take hours. And since you don’t want to waste your day standing in line, here's how to skip it.

1. Buy Tickets In Advance

Anyone can purchase tickets via the official Eiffel Tower website up two months in advance, choose a specific entry time, and decide if you want to go all the way to the summit ($19, or €17) or just to the 2nd floor ($12, or €11). Just beware because tickets sell out quickly and if you’re more than 30 minutes late to your reservation, you lose your spot.

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2. Eat a Meal

For multitaskers, consider booking a lunch or dinner at the Eiffel Tower. Whether you choose the informal 58 Tour Eiffel on the first level or the formal dining experience at Le Jules Verne on the second level, you'll get to skip the line because they have separate entrances. Meal prices range from $48 to $260 (€42.50 to €230).
Book Now and Save at Hotels.com
3. Buy A Package Through The Paris Tourism Office

Because Paris is a walkable city filled with hidden charms and sights, it can feel a bit overwhelming planning a sightseeing itinerary. That’s why The Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau created the Paris Passlib available for one, two, three or five days. The package includes things like a one-hour boat cruise and one-day bus tour, but also, for an additional $17, you can get access to the second floor of the Eiffel Tower without the wait. Packages start at $45 (or €40).

4. Book A Tour

Using a private tour operator on any vacation can be helpful with organizing and planning a trip. They also can help you skip lines at attractions. Companies offer comprehensive France itineraries where a visit to the Eiffel Tower without lines is included. Fat Tire Tours advertises their “Skip the Line” tour where you get access to all three levels, and City Wonders has a “Guided Eiffel Tower Tour” available that lets you walk straight to the front of the line with a local expert.

5. Take The Stairs

While everyone else is rushing the elevator, you can put in a little leg work by climbing the stairs to the first (330 steps) or second level (670 steps). From those points, you can take the elevator up to the next level where you’ll only wait a matter of minutes rather than hours. Stair tickets are only $8 and one writer said it was one of the best experiences of her trip. Extra bonus? You get to burn off your morning pain au chocolat.

One of the covered passages in Paris.

Hidden cafes, secrets passages, or simply must-see attractions.

How well do you know Paris?

1st arrondissement: Head inside the Louvre

You'd be hard pressed to find more beautiful building interiors - forget about the permanent collection.

2nd arrondissement: Wander through the Galerie Vivienne (also pictured above)

These are some of the best hidden gems of Paris. There used to be up to 150 covered passages in the golden age in the 19th century, now there are about a dozen.

3rd arrondissement: Eat at Le Marché des Enfants Rouges

It's a beautiful market that's very local, with all kinds of international dishes. You can't go wrong for Lebanese or Middle Eastern food.

4th arrondissement: Go inside the Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis church

This church, right next to the Saint-Paul Metro stop, is a treasure trove of little historical details.

5th arrondissement: See the Roman ruins

The old bath houses next to the Cluny museum are fantastic and they're about 1900 years old. You've gotta check them out.

6th arrondissement: Grab a drink at the Café Procope

It's the very first café in Paris, founded in 1686, and offers unmissable French revolution memorabilia upstairs.

7th arrondissement: Take in La Fontaine de Mars

It's a beautiful little fountain on Rue Saint-Dominique dedicated to Mars, the god of war. And it's just down the road from the Eiffel Tower. Can't find it? It's right night to a cafe of the same name.

A picture of the fountain on a 1910 postcard. Photo:WikiCommons

8th arrondissement: Find the hidden café at the Petit Palais

A lot of people don't know that entry is free, and the trick here is to go into the interior courtyard where's a great little café. It's one of my best unknown coffee hotspots in Paris.

9th arrondissement: Visit the Opera house

It's only €11 to get in and you're free to roam about. You've got chandeliers, painted ceilings, marble staircases, and the origins of the Phantom of the Opera.

10th arrondissement: Stroll along the Canal Saint-Martin

It's always described as up and coming, but it has arrived now. Have a coffee at Ten Belles cafe.

11th arrondissement: Have a coffee at the cat café (Cafe des chats)
A new one in Bastille. It's a working café with house cats, you have your coffee and a crumpet with little cats playing around. It's great for families bringing kids to Paris.

12th arrondissement: Walk the Promenade plantée

Former elevated railway track that's now a walk stretching out into the 12th - and no tourists ever find it. It's very nice for a date.

13th arrondissement: Eat Chinese food at Chinatown

Head to the south eastern part of the 13th for the best Chinese food in town, it's fantastic.

14th arrondissement: Head into Catacombs

You've got to do the catacombs. When you pay as a tourist there's a mile's worth of tunnels - but there's actually around 200 miles around Paris.

15th arrondissement: Check out the Unesco Building

The headquarters of Unesco has beautiful gardens and impressive architecture - and a lot of people don't realize it. Ok, the building is technically on the border of the 15th and 7th, but that doesn't mean you should miss it!

16th arrondissement: Enjoy Hector Guimard's architecture

Guimard did all art nouveau, cast iron Metro stations. He was prolific for his buildings in the 16th, wander around and check out his art nouveau architecture. Start with Castel Béranger.

17th arrondissement: Take a stroll at Parc Monceau

It's such a local park, and it's so clean and full of families. It's extraordinary.

18th arrondissement: See Picasso's old studio
You can stand in front of Le Bateau-Lavoir and know that Picasso's artistic career started there. You can't go inside, but you can stand in a cute little square out the front and contemplate being in the footsteps of one of the greats.

19th arrondissement: Experience the Bassin de la Villette

Check out the boats anchored on the canal there, the "péniches", some of which are restaurants, cafes, some are bookshops, just walk up and down along the waterside.

20th arrondissement: Take in the Père Lachaise cemetery

It's like an outdoor sculpture gallery over 100 acres. You'll see all the famous tombs - Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrisson, Edith Piaf - but it's like a park too. Some people call it the 21st arrondissement.

Here's a map of all the attractions:

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