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Home Archive for 2017-05-14


Visit Le Procope

The times when we’ve strolled down the Cour du Commerce Saint André, a small cobbled pedestrian street of in the Latin Quarter, we’ve always stopped by the rear façade of Le Procope, one of the famous restaurants in Paris. It’s not dinner time and no, it’s not the prospect of a hearty French meal that stops us in our tracks here, but the portraits of prominent Parisians and others that grace the windows of Le Procope. Robespierre, Benjamin Franklin, Alexis Piron were some of the famous personalities who frequented Café Procope and created French history within the walls of the restaurant.


Le Procope is the oldest café in Paris and we just love the history of the establishment. As we waited for the perfect moment to take our shot of the windows, the sous-chef began chatting to us. He was just finishing his break before preparations for the busy evening began and he invited us into the restaurant to see all the rooms and to take pictures of the place. The restaurant’s management team were just gathering for their meeting before the start of the evening trade and normally we would expect that visitors would not be welcomed at this time. Thanks to the sous-chef who paved the way for us, we were given free access to explore the restaurant on our own.

The Oldest Paris Café


When Italian Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli started his café in 1686, coffee was an exotic drink at that time and the high quality of his beverages attracted the ‘gentlemen of fashion’ to his establishment. Then came the Comédie Francaise, which was established across the road from Café Procope in 1689, and the café then became known as the “café of wits”.



Throughout the 18th century Café Procope also became the haunt of the literary elite and anyone who was anyone in the literary world would gather here. With patrons like Voltaire, Rousseau, Beaumarchais, Balzac, Verlaine and Hugo, Café Procope soon established its reputation as the first literary café in Paris.

Café Procope was totally refurbished in 1988 and as we walked upstairs, its plush carpets, red walls and crystal chandeliers paint a picture of its 18th-century grandeur. On the wall at the top of the staircase are copies of royal decrees, declarations and records of historical events of the time.



Voltaire must have spent a lot of time at Le Procope as he has his very own a desk here, which you can still see in one of the little rooms. If you believe the stories, Voltaire is said to have drunk forty cups of coffee a day – a good customer for the café.
Age of Englightenment


Napoleon’s famous hat


In the 18th century, many liberal ideas were thrashed out and took their development in Le Procope. Café Procope became a meeting place of the Enlightenment thinkers and as we stood in the private meeting room with a long table, it’s easy to imagine the animated discussions that would have taken place around the table. Diderot, who developed the Encyclopedia, was harassed and persecuted by the church, but he would have felt safe at Le Procope amongst like thinkers.


And it’s not just the French literary greats who met at Le Procope, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson also spent time here and it is suggested that the U.S. Constitution may even have been partly developed within these walls.
Le Procope During the Revolution

During the French Revolution, Café Procope was once again a place of rendezvous. Robespierre, Danton and Marat, one of the most radical voices of the French Revolution, met here. And with the guillotines in Paris in overdrive, the atmosphere in Café Procope must have been electrifying at the time. The young Lieutenant Bonaparte was also a regular here and his famous hat, which you can see today, was left behind as a surety for his café bill.


Even after the Revolution, Le Procope continued to be a meeting place of writers, philosophers, newspaper editors, social reformers and other well-known contemporary figures, and each of the prominent patrons will have an interesting story linked to Le Procope. We are indeed grateful to the sous-chef for inviting us into the restaurant to indulge in its history.



Le Procope serves traditional French cuisine and if Magret de canard du Sud-Ouest, Tête de veau en cocotte or Boeuf des “Révolutionnaires” makes your mouth water, Le Procope is a stylish restaurant where you can enjoy fine dining in a historical setting. The Salon Frédéric Chopin is an elegant dining room or if you like being outdoors, there are romantic tables for two on the balcony.





Paris Catacombs skulls


Underneath the city of Paris, you’ll find a honeycomb of tunnels. The French resistance used these tunnels during World War II, and rave parties flourished there during the 1990s. Victor Hugo used his knowledge about the tunnel system when he wrote Les Misérables. In 1871, communards killed a group of monarchists in one chamber. The tunnel system is a giant maze and no one knows quite how many tunnels or chambers there are out there. Paris is, after all, a very old city that has been built and rebuilt many times.
Yet in this maze of tunnels, you’ll find one part open to the public – the famous Catacombs of Paris. The Catacombs of Paris were created at the end of the 18th century. From the late seventeenth century, Paris’ largest cemetery, Les Innocents, became too filled with bodies, and neighbors began suffering from disease due to contamination caused by improper burials and open mass graves.  Neither the cemetery, nor any of the others for that matter, could keep up with the population growth of Paris. After multiple complaints by residents, the Council of State in November 9, 1785 pronounced the removal and the evacuation of the cemetery.
Paris Catacombs skullsParis Catacombs skulls and cross

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The bones were removed from 1786 and continued until 1788. The bones were always moved at night to a ceremony made up of a procession of priests who sang along the way to the Catacombs.
Since the first day they were complete, the Catacombs have been an object of curiosity, even for royalty. In 1787, Lord of d’Artois, who became King Charles 10, went down there with the ladies from the Court. In 1814, François 1st, Emperor of Austria, went to visit and explore them while he was in Paris. In 1860, Napoleon III went there with his son. The catacomb walls are also covered in graffiti dating from the eighteenth century. Everyone has left their mark on this place. Towards the end of the 18th century, the catacombs became a tourist attraction and have been open to the public on a regular basis from 1867.
The Catacombs are eerie. They are quiet, dark, damp, and a bit downright depressing. There are lots of bones around and most of them are just stacked up on each other. You’ll never know who is who – that skull you are looking at could be someone who died from the plague or from a wealthy aristocrat. You never know.
To get to the Catacombs, you can take the subway and the RER to Denfert-Rochereau or use Bus 38 and 68. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day except Monday. Last admission is at 4 p.m. Visits are limited to 200 visitors in the site (entries can be stopped temporarily) and it costs 7 Euros. Check their website before you go because they are sometimes closed without warning or explanation.


All photos: AFP
Wondering what your trips around Paris will look like now the popular bike-sharing scheme has changed hands? We're here to tell you.

The famed Velib' bike-sharing scheme is set to move from JCDecaux to the Smoovengo consortium led by Montpellier-based bike-sharing company Smoove.

Here are some important changes set for 2018 that every Velib'er should know:

1. The price will (very likely) go up

As predicted by Le Parisien newspaper earlier this year, the price of using the Vélib' is very likely to rise. However, the tariffs will not be confirmed until the autumn when a price hike is voted on.

The basic subscription of €29 with the first 30 minutes of each journey free "doesn't reflect reality," president of Vélib' Métropole Marie-Pierre de la Gontrie, told the paper. She also confirmed that the increased tariffs would be moderate to avoid losing the 300,000 current subscription holders who will be automatically enrolled in the new scheme.

While the Vélib scheme was not originally supposed to cost the public a penny, the auditors found that in 2013, the total bill came to €16 million. Paris City Hall has since confirmed that it forks out around €15 million a year, according to reports in the French media.

In the past, current operator JCDecaux was accused of not being transparent when it came to its financial reports.



2. They'll be more modern

CEO of Smoove, Laurent Mercat has been keen to highlight the technology that will be available when his company takes over.

With 30 percent of the new fleet electrically-operated and offering Wifi, the scheme which is fast-approaching its tenth birthday is set to make a step into the future.

The move will also help battle the common problem of bike stations in Montmartre, Montparnasse and Buttes Chaumont remaining empty for long periods of time as users use them to cycle downhill but rarely use them to slog up Parisian hills.

3. It will be easier to get to the suburbs

Currently 20 suburbs around Paris take part in the Vélib' scheme and 40 more will have the chance to join in time for the start of the 2018 contract. Other suburbs around Paris will be able to join the scheme later during the company's 2018-2032 contract for a participation fee of €10,000 per station.

Temporary bike stations will also be set up for certain large-scale events such as music festivals Rock-en-Seine and Solidays.



4. A bike you can depend on

By updating the bikes Smoove plans to reduce vandalism to affect only 15 percent, a figure which falls in line with the company's current fleet of 20,000 bikes, reported Le Parisien.

This falls well below the current vandalism figures which see above 70 percent of bikes damaged each year.

The new bikes will have a locking cable integrated into the handle bar and a GPS-tracking system to prevent damage.

Theft and vandalism have been a major scourge on the scheme since its launch in 2007. Around 19,000 are stolen each year and while the majority are found, around a quarter of those recovered are so badly damaged they have to be destroyed.

JCDecaux has claimed that €1.5 million of the total of the €15 million amount the Vélib' system costs Parisians each year is made up of vandalism repair.

And happily something that won't change...

5. A smooth handover

During the handover, the Vélib' bikes will be available although the number on hand will decrease.

Between January and March 2018 the two companies will execute a "well orchestrated" plan, Smoove CEO Mercat assured Le Parisien, as JCDecaux removes its 1,200 stations. Smoove will have 50 percent of its stations operational by January 2018.

If you have ever visited Paris and been to the Louvre, Pont Alexandre III, or Jardin des Tuileries, there is a good chance that someone has attempted to scam you. You may or may not of known it. Some of these are very clever, some of these are stupid, but all of them can be entertaining from time to time. Here are the most common ones that I know of:

1. The Ring Trick

This is the one that I see the most and probably spend the most time discussing with my groups on tour. What happens is a Romani (Gypsy) will walk past and suddenly stoop down to the ground, pretending to drop a ring on the ground. Somehow, they will articulate that they found the ring on the ground, and then ask if the person next to them dropped it. The people will say no and walk on. Then, the ring bearer will return, saying that it doesn't fit their finger, and as they cannot wear it, try and give it to the victim. They also might point out that it is real gold (which is not even close to true). A lot of times, the people don't know what to say and so they just take it. The Gypsy will then shake the person's hand (though I have seen them kiss people too) and then walk away. The people will stand dumbfounded, or keep walking. Meanwhile, the Romani will walk four or five steps away, turn around, and then come back and ask their victims for money for food. They usually show this by putting their hands to their mouths in the motion of shoving food into them. Sometimes people will give them money, sometimes the people will realize it is a scam and give the money back.

If this happens to you at some point, just keep walking. If you want to go through the experience just for the fun of it, then I guess that could be fun, too. This scam can be found in the Champ de Mars, the Jardin des Tuileries, the Louvre, and on a handful of bridges in the city such as the Pont Alexandre III, Pont Neuf, and a few others as well.

2. Deaf/Mute

Occasionally, one might find some people with sheets, usually near Pont Neuf, asking for people to sign something for the deaf and the mute. And when I say ask, I mean point at their sheet with their pen. Some people sign it, and then they will make some gesture to give them money. Do not bother with these guys, as I've seen them talk to each other, which pretty much ruins their credibility as mute people begging for money.

3. Bracelets

In front of the Louvre, and especially at the bottom of the steps of Sacré Coeur, and Eiffel,you will probably find some West African guys who will ask you to stop and ask you to put out your finger. Unless you want to pay for a bracelet, don't do it. What they will do, if you so happen to extend your finger in their presence, is throw a loop around your finger, and start tying the bracelet together. If you try to move your finger out of it, it tightens up like a Chinese finger trap, leaving you trapped until they are finished. They might even tell you that it is made from rare African thread, even though it comes from a shop just down the street from Sacré Coeur. Furthermore, if it was so rare and expensive, you wouldn't find pieces of it strewn all over the ground where they work.
Once finished, they'll come up with some ridiculous price for the bracelet, and you'll either pay what they tell you, or try and talk it down to something reasonable. I have a little more respect for these guys as the bracelets actually look pretty cool, and you might get away with paying five euros or less for it, which if you wanted a bracelet, is actually a pretty good deal.

4. Sign For Peace in Africa

This scam is by far the most successful of any of the scams in the city of Paris. These guys are also West African in origin, and hang out near one of the back entrances to the Louvre. They are usually only there in the morning, but honestly, with as much money as they probably make, they really don't have to work more than a couple of hours a day.

What these guys will do, when they see someone pass, they might come up and say "Ah good morning big family! Welcome to Paris! Sign for peace in Africa!" The location in Africa tends to change based on which country is in the news at the moment.
These guys will then throw a pen and paper in front of the victim, who will then start to sign. The scammer will probably grab the person's arm, shake their hand, even hug them to show their gratitude for the money they are about to give them. Then, the victim will be asked for donations for food, water, political assistance, or whatever causes a person to give their money over to Africa. The scammers also mention that the average donation is about 20 euros. Amazingly, people give over 20 euros all of the time. I've seen people give 50 euros without even flinching.

I made a rough estimate that if every few people happen to give five euros to the cause, then in a morning's work, these guys should easily make 100 euros a morning, if not more. If that is the case, and these work maybe 6 days a week (though I see the same ones daily), that would allow them to make close to 32,000 euros a year, untaxed. 36,000 is considered an excellent salary in France, and that includes the high taxes. These guys are doing well.

So why don't the police stop this? They do try from time to time. Let's say the police start to walk by- all these guys have to do is to close their binders and walk away. If the cops do not see them soliciting people, they will leave them alone, even though they know what the scammers are doing. Security at the Louvre is maybe worse, as I see them come and high five or handshake these guys when they happen to pass by. They might tell them to cross the street and stand in front of the Pont des Arts, but they are always pretty nice about it.

5. Do You Speak English?

This one is also very common and is probably the most widespread around Notre-Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and the Louvre. Scores of Gypsy girls will come by, one at a time, and ask you if you speak English. If you actually say yes, they will show you a piece of paper that usually says something like this:

Ladies and Gentlemen: I am an immigrant from Bosnia, my father has cancer, is on life support and has one arm/leg/lung. My mother is dead, my sister is blind, and we live on the streets. Please give me some money.

I have to say I somewhat doubt that everyone of these girls has a dead mother and father with cancer. Everyone of these girls has a sheet of paper that says the exact same thing; they seem to be working with a template. If you want to give them money, go for it, but don't feel obliged to do it as someone else will probably do it.

These are just the most common that I have seen here in Paris.
Staying away from the city centre and touristic area allows you to experience a typical French neighbourhood. At Marché Cours de Vincennes, the vendors love to talk about their products and welcome you to take plenty of pictures! From fish, shellfish, meats, cheese, fresh-cut flowers, breads and many more items! The people here are definitely one of the friendliest I have met in Paris.


A friendly vendor showing us his prawns!

The produce here are definitely fresh and the stall owners are proud of their goods being Productions de l'Ile de France or produced in France. There are many local artisanal alternatives and the marches makes it easy to avoid industrial food and pre-packaged produce.



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Look at those crabs. If only we had a kitchen!


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Rows of beautiful meat, some of which have been well marinated.

All sorts of meat
The vendors made it their produce easy to cook. For example, some of the meat have been tied up for roasting. You can get many fresh produce here!

You must be thinking, I don't have a kitchen. Why should I visit this market?
They have ready-to-eat produce! You can get a well roasted chicken for a picnic. After all, the Kampung Chicken we have in Singapore is a breed of chicken that originated from France. Yummy.

Poulet

There are plenty of fruits available! Some of them which can be eaten without much preparation. Strawberries, Raspberry, Peaches and many more!

Strawberries, Raspberry, Peaches
Look at those figs. We only see dried ones in Singapore. Figs are commonly eaten raw with a little cheese or dairy spread over them.

Figs
You will be spoilt for choices with the variety of bread!
Bread

Some olives to go with the sandwich or cheese.
Olives

There are other vendors that sell miscellaneous items like shoes and tableware.
Shoes

There are so much more to see!

Eggs

Raw Pastas

Rows of Vegetables

More vegetables
Strawberries and other vegetables.

You could get flowers for your loved ones

Flowers
This is how the market looks like. A row of shops on a road.

Marché Cours de Vincennes
Visiting a market is a great way to meet the locals! There are plenty of Marches(markets) around Paris and you should set aside time to visit at least one of them:
If you are interested in vintage items, head down to a flea market such as the Porte de Clignancourt, Paris's largest flea market.
If you like a historic food market, Marche des Enfants Rouges has a nice wine bar.

What you need to know:
- Marché Cours de Vincennes opens on Wednesdays from 7:00am - 2:30pm and Saturdays from 7:00am - 3:00pm. However, some stores close as early as 1:00pm.
- The market attracts more regional maraichers than you will find in most Paris markets.
- There are plenty of markets in Paris, visit one that is close to your hotel!
Death is not the end for the residents of Père Lachaise in Paris. Their tombs and graves are gawked at every day by hundreds of camera-touting tourists seeking the cemetery’s famous and not-so-famous inhabitants.
The cemetery was built in 1804 as the city ran out of room for new graves within its limits. It was named after Louis XIV’s confessor, Père François de la Chaise (1624–1709), who lived in a house near the cemetery land.

At the time, the locals considered the cemetery too far from the city. Père Lachaise only had 13 graves its first year. However, administrators devised a plan and, with great fanfare, transferred the remains of Jean de La Fontaine (fabulist) and Molière (playwright), two of Paris’s most famous artists, to Père Lachaise.
The strategy worked, and people clamored to be interred with the cemetery’s famous new residents. Today, there are over a million people buried here, and it’s still an active cemetery, though to be buried here, you have to have lived or died in Paris.
Waking up on a bright beautiful day, we went to the cemetery to marvel at the graves, mausoleums, and sepulchres of the dead. While a rainy day may have been more à propos, I welcomed the sun (I lacked an umbrella).
grand tombstones at French cemetery
Humans have always had a fascination with death — we’ve been writing, singing, and pondering about it for ages. We dedicate much of our lives to thinking about that eternal question “What comes next?” So it doesn’t surprise me that cemeteries become tourist attractions.
To me, walking among the dead is both uncomfortable and interesting at the same time.
I tend to feel uncomfortable because I think, “Here we are, gawking at the graves of the dead like they’re some museum exhibit to be ogled.” The dead become a sideshow as people exclaim, “Hey look, I have a picture of Jim Morrison’s grave! Yay!” Maybe it’s because we want to get close to the famous people we could never get close to in life. I don’t know, but whatever the reason, as I snap a dozen photos of Édith Piaf’s grave, I know I’m guilty of it, too.
mourning statues at pere lachaise cemetery
But more than being uncomfortable, I’m always interested in the people around me. Who were they? What lives did they lead? Were they happy? Sad? Were they loved, lost souls, artists, hypochondriacs? I like to imagine them going through the ups and downs of life we all face or being witnesses to a historical event we now dissect in history books.
It’s easy to get lost among the giant crypts and trees. Covering 110 acres, the cemetery rises along a hill, with the older center a mishmash of winding streets and long-worn-out names and the newer tombs laid out in perfect city blocks. The moss-covered tombs and tree-lined cobblestone streets hide the sounds of the city. All that remains are your footsteps and the squawks from crows who remind you that on this day of life, death is all around.
James Morrison's tombstone in cemetery in France
Beautiful haunting pathway through French graveyard
Most visitors are drawn to the cemetery by the famous people buried here: Édith Piaf, Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Honoré de Balzac, Molière, Chopin, Max Ernst, and others. They make a break for these graves while leaving the rest of the dead (and living) undisturbed.
Sad statue of a woman mourning at pere lachaise graveyard
I wandered through the graves, struck by the silence and the enormity of the tombs. Many of the mausoleums seem fit for kings and are spectacularly decorated with statues, art, and sculptures depicting angels and scenes of mourning. These people wanted to be remembered. As I wandered around, I found a contrast to the tombs of the celebrities, who seemed to want the opposite. Celebrity graves were often the simplest, as if they no longer wanted in death the spotlight they had in life.
staue in graveyard in Paris at pere lachaise
We spent hours visiting the cemetery, often sitting in silence, reflecting on those buried around me. Visiting the graves of so many people that I admire made me feel oddly connected to them. I paid my respects and thanked them for the influence they’ve had in my life. I only hope I’ll accomplish half of what they did in their lives.
Directions: The best way to get here is to take the no. 2 or no. 3 metro line and get off at the “Père-Lachaise” stop.



If there is one era I’d want to visit more than any other, it’s Paris in the 1920s.


I’m in love with that decade. The literature, jazz, optimism, style, and atmosphere — I love it all.

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Midnight in Paris is my favorite Paris movie, and I often wish I could make that real life.

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However, unless you have a time machine, you can’t really visit 1920s Paris. What made les Années folles special can never be relived — the spirit, psyche, people, and music have long since faded away. But, as we have seen with the rise of Gatsby-themed parties and Prohibition-style bars, you can pretend! And that’s what I did on a recent visit to Paris, where there are still enough spots that recreate the era’s vibe to fill a visit.
Things to See and Do



20 rue Jacob – Back in the ’20s, a lot of American expats hosted salons that would bring together artists and writers to discuss and debate specific topics. One of the most famous was led by writer Natalie Clifford Barney. Although the building she lived in has been rebuilt since her time, during the day, you can often peer into the courtyard and garden where she held her salons. 

The Luxembourg Garden (Jardin du Luxembourg; 6th arrondissement) – This is one of my all-time favorite places to visit when I’m in Paris. These beautiful and gigantic gardens, which surround the Luxembourg Palace (now home to the National Assembly), are also full of walking paths, chairs to relax in, ponds and fountains, statues, and finely manicured lawns that can’t help but inspire and soothe you. On a warm day, the gardens are bursting with people. In his day, Ernest Hemingway was also a fan, and it is said he wrote a lot during his strolls around the gardens. 

Shakespeare & Co. (37 Rue de La Bûcherie, – Located across from Notre Dame, Shakespeare & Co. is one of the most iconic bookshops in the world. The original store opened in 1919 and served as a popular haunt for writers such as Ezra Pound, Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, and others who fancied themselves writers (Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast has a chapter about his visit). The original location closed during WWII. The current store and location dates to 1951. It still captures the spirit of the writer class and does a lot to support writers (it has 13 beds writers can sleep in for free!), hosting readings and events throughout the year. I love wandering through its stacks and picking out unknown titles. 

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Montmartre – The Left Bank was the main hangout of artists and writers, but when they crossed the Seine, they went to Montmartre, where the cheap shops, cafés, and restaurants served as a backdrop to their discussions and work. They painted in the squares, debated in the streets, and wandered the tiny cobblestone streets in solitary thought. Today, thanks to the cheap housing, the area is still home to artists and painters (though it is far more touristy)! 

27 rue de Fleurus – Another salon was hosted by the famous Gertrude Stein, who lived at this address. Anyone who was anyone attended them, including Joyce, Hemingway, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Guillaume Apollinaire, and Ezra Pound. Today, the rue de Fleurus is a quiet street and the house she lived in has been remodeled, but there’s a plaque above the address marking this famous spot, so you can sit for a moment and imagine what it would have been like to see all the greats walk in and out! 

Where to Eat


Les Deux Magots (6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés, and Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, – These two cafés are most synonymous with the Lost Generation (those who grew up during and just after World War I). Located right near each other in the now-trendy Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter of Paris, these cafés are where all the artists and writers hung out in the 1920s. Picasso, Hemingway (again), Simone de Beauvoir, André Gide, Jean Giraudoux, Jean Paul Sartre — they were always here. Les Deux Magots sits on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue Bonaparte and fills the sidewalk with its chairs and tables, while the inside retains its old look: white walls, columns, and large mirrors. Café de Flore, with its large plants and flowers in the entranceway, is cozier but also retains its old-style marble floor and red leather seats. 

La Closerie des Lilas (171 Boulevard du Montparnasse) – At the far end of the Luxembourg Gardens, you’ll find this tiny little café with a dimly lit interior and large outdoor patio hidden from the street by giant plants. It is said that Hemingway first read The Great Gatsby here. Like the other venues, the interior is still identical to how was it was 1920s. 

Le Polidor (41 Rue Monsieur le Prince) – In Midnight in Paris, this is where Gil meets his idol, Ernest Hemingway. During the 1920s, this was actually a popular location for the likes of Joyce, Hemingway, André Gide, and Antonin Artaud. Thanks to the movie, restaurant is doing a booming business, but if you can find a seat, you’ll see that the hard-wood interior and décor has changed little since the ’20s. Imagine yourself sitting next to some famous artist of the day over delicious food and wine! 

Recommendation of Hotels in Paris

Where to Listen to Music




There aren’t many original music and jazz clubs left that have been around since the 1920s. Most have shifted focus, but if you want to listen to some good music, I recommend these three jazz bars:
Le Caveau de la Huchette (5 Rue de la Huchette) – This place has become increasingly popular since it was mentioned in the hit movie La La Land. 

Le Caveau des Oubliettes (52 Rue Galande) – An awesome club in the Latin Quarter. This small venue is an ex wine cave dating back centuries. Small and intimate, it’s my favorite of the three. 

Le Duc des Lombards (42 Rue des Lombards) – On the right bank, this jazz club is probably the most famous (and touristy) of the city but it gets incredible acts and pumps out some of the best jazz and blues in the area! 

Where to Drink


Harry’s New York Bar (5 Rue Daunou) – This is where they created the Bloody Mary and the Sidecar. This nondescript bar opened in 1911 and was a popular hangout for Fitzgerald and Hemingway. The tiny bar, with its deep wood finish, carved ceilings, and red leather seats, still remains intact. 

Dingo Bar (10 Rue Delambre) – This is where Hemingway first met Fitzgerald. It was popular with the Lost Generation because it was one of the few places that were open all night (and they liked to party late into the morning). Today, it’s an Italian restaurant called L’Auberge de Venise, but the original bar remains and you can still come and pretend to have a drink with “Papa.” 

The Prescription Cocktail Club (23 Rue Mazarine) – From the street, all you see is a curtained window, but when you get inside, you’re reminded of a 1920s NYC-style speakeasy. True, this place didn’t exist in the 1920s, but if you’re looking for incredible cocktails and an ambiance and class that says “welcome to history,” slide up to the marble bar and enjoy a drink in this darkly lit bar with exposed bricks and old-fashioned furniture. 

The Little Red Door (60 Rue Charlot) – Located in the Marais, this is another bar looking to recreate that 1920s speakeasy vibe. It’s easy to pass the little red door of a nondescript building that hides this beautiful small bar with brick walls, eclectic furniture, and amazing (strong) cocktails. While it lacks the true ’20s feeling of the Prescription Cocktail Club, it’s still a fun place to visit!
***


As Hemingway once wrote, “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” Paris has changed a lot since les Années folles, and while it will never be the same, you can visit the old haunts and — just for a moment — transport yourself back in time and imagine what it was like.





Vatikanski muzeji

Svaki posjet muzeju više je od hodanja od izložaka do izložaka te je stoga potrebno sa sobom ponijeti određeno predznanje,upoznati se sa nastankom i razvojem muzeja, a Vatikanski su muzeji nešto posebno,ne samo zbog virijednosti koja je u njima pohranjena,već i zbog smještaja u Vatikanu i zbog stjecišta kršćanske i neokršćanske kulture osobito vezanoga uz papinstvo.Kao polazišna točka može poslužiti Trg sv.Petra.

Od praktičnih uputa dobro je svakako znati da posjet ukupno traje bar tri sata(hodanja) te se u skladu sa time valja i pripremiti za posjet.

Također je poželjno provjeriti kojima danima je Muzej otvoren a sve prije posjeta,a u zadnje vrijeme je svakako preporuka kupiti ulaznicu on line za točno određen datum i vrijeme.


Recimo ako kupite ulaznicu za 10.00 h neće vas prije nikako pustiti.

Također nije preporučljivo u jednome danu planirati posjet bazilici sv.Petra i Muzejima,jer je to svakako prezahtjevno i teško ostvarivo,osim ako se radi o posjetu na brzinu, no tada to nema svoju čar.


Povijesni razvoj Vatikana


Prvotni razvoj grada Rima povezan je uz lijevu obalu Tibera,dok je desna obala svojim bočnim odvodnim rukavcima služila samo za riječni prijevoz i promet. Tko bih gledao desnu obalu ili preko nje prema zapadu,vidio bi poljane na kojima se pokazivala tek pokoja peć na glinu.
Ostatak je bio neobrađen teren pod nazivom ager vaticanus.Ime vatikanskog brežuljka je etrurskog porijekla i podrazumjevalo je puno puta i bražuljke Gianicolo i Monte Mario.
 Samo bih ime prema Veronu,označavalo ime božanstava koje je čuvalo prve povike i glasove novorođenčadi(Vagitanus),ali je vjerojatnije da se etrušćansko mjesto zvalo Vaticum, a od toga je nastao pridjev vaticanus.

Od XIV.stoljeća nadalje,ovo se mjesto označuje jednostavno kao trans Tiberium (s druge strane Tibera). Na kraju republikanske epohe, te u vrijeme Carstva, u ovome su se području nalazile tek vile za zabavu i odmor pojedinih povlaštenih građana rimske države.
Tako je primjerice majka cara Kaligule,Agripina(do 41.godine) izgradila sebi vrtove.


Slične samo još veće, posjedovala je obitelj Domicije, a u Neronovo vrijeme(54.-68.godine) izgrađeni su poznati Neronovi vrtovi. U njima je dovršen i stadion(latinski circus) koji je započeo graditi Kaligula a koji je tamo doveo i postavio obelisk dovučen iz Egipt, a sada se nalazi na Trgu sv.Petra.

Već je August ovdje uredio poseban stadion koji je služio za borbe brodova(naumahija).

Sam je Kaligula dao izgraditi i jedan hipodrom.

Među svim tim zabavama najokrutnije su bile Neronove koji je, među ostalima, ovdje razapinjao i spaljivao žive kršćane, kako to prikazuje i sam rimski pisac Tacit u svojim Analima( u XV.poglavlju,44). Među mučenicima je bio i sv.Petar, pokopan izvan kruga stadiona, čija je memoria, pogrebni spomenik, posvećena 324.godine u golemoj bazilici, u vrijeme pape Silvestera I.

Ipak, sam je car Konstantin važnost grada stavljao u sve veći zaborav, prebacujući glavni grad u Konstantinopol(Carigrad).
Nakon toga slijede invazije nerimskih naroda, a Rimljani su ih zvali "barbarima":Alarih i Goti (410 godine), Vandali(445 godine), Totila(545.-546.godine).

Grad se sve više sužavao dok se upravo oko vatikanske bazilike stvara nova četvrt,koje je bila mnogo puta pošteđena barbarske ruke. No ,i IX.stoljeću Saraceni su napali upravobazilike sv.Petra i sv.Pavla (846.pod papom Sergejem II.).
Tako je papa Lav IV. odlučio zatvoriti u jake zidine podrulje oko bazilike prema Anđeoskoj tvrđavi.

Tada je Vatikan dobio zidine i grad bi nazvan Leonovim gradom.

Prvo sjedište papa nije se, kako sam pisao nalazilo u Vatikanu, već na području rimske obitelji Laterani, a darovano crkvi.Crkva sv.Petra bila je zapravo grobljanska crkva,slična onoj sv.Pavla.

Papinski je problem bio više liturgijske naravi tj.pronaći smještaj pokraj bazilike, kada se sam papa ovdje nalazio radi liturgijskog slavlja.
Papa Simah I. gradi biskupsku rezidenciju jer je bio prisiljen napustiti Lateran zbog laurencijskog raskola(šizme) (501.-506.godine).

Godine 781. Karlo Veliki stvara za sebe razidenciju sjeverno od bazilike.Eugenije III. ovdje gradi nov palaču koju papa Inocent III. proširuje i osigurava.

Nikola III. pretvara Vatikan u stabilnu rezidenciju,stvarajući četverokutnu zgradu s tornjevima na uglovima oko dvorišta koje je nosilo ime (čudo!)-po papigi(Cortile del Papagallo).

Tako je sam Vatikan zadobio vojno obilježje skloništa papa u vrijeme izvanjskih napada.

Žalosno doba avignonskoga sužanjstva(1309.-1377.godine) i zapadni raskol(1378.-1417.godine) označavali su jednako tako i nesretno razdoblje za papinske zgrade.

Ponovno buđenje uslijedilo je u vrijeme papinstva Nikole V..Vatikan se tada vratio izvorištu i novoj interpretaciji tj.imenu Sjedište pape pri sv.Petru (apud sanctum Petrum).
Tako palača zadobiva obilježja graditeljstva rane renesanse.
U tome posvijesnome slijedu dolazi vrijeme kada se ovdje smještaju Vatikanski muzeji i Vatikanska biblioteka,dvije najpoznatije "profane" institucije Svete Stolice, koje nikada nisu zbiljski shvaćane kao profane, svjetovne.
One su plod poimanja starogrčke i starorimske umjetnosti kao dosegnuta savršenstva, kao nešto izvan vremensko i kao takvo prilagodljivo svim vremenima.

Ti su modeli postali uzorom za ljudsko stvaralaštvo najviše razine - misaonu i umjetnost.

Taj se nepovijesni pristup može promatrati i kao prostor pripremljen za novo poimanje kršćanstva na Zapadu.

Pravi početak Vatikanskih muzeja treba tražiti u palači Belvedere koju je podigao papa Inocent VIII., a uredio Julije II., gdje su bila smještena djela umjetnosti antike, kao što je Apolon, Venera Felix, Laokoontova skupina, Nil, Tiber, Zaspala Ariana.
Druge skulpture su bile smještene u samoj papinskoj palači.

Duh protureformacije(spomenimo papu Pia V.) sa zakašnjenjem prihvaća nepovijesnu viziju antike i umjetnosti, te s vremenom i Katolička crkva primjenjuje temelje umjetnosti i arheologije u apologetske svrhe protiv protestanata.
Prvi pravi odgovor na nove zahtijeve dolazi u XVIII.stoljeću Benedikt XIV.godine 1756.utemeljuje Sv.muzej biblioteke, a samo deset godina kasnije Clement XIII. utemeljuje profani muzej.
Između 1771. i 1793.godine osnovani su muzeji: Pio-clementini( po papi Klementu XIV,te Piju VI. i Piju VII.), Chiarimonti i Galeria Lapidaria (1807.-1810.godine), Braccio Nuovo 1822.godine.

Kada je dozrijevalo iskustvo iskapanja i zakonodavstvo po francuskome primjeru,tomu znanstvenom području raste popularnost,ali i pravo na iskapanje iskopine u XIX.stoljeću, posobno kada je riječ o etrušćanskim i egipatskim starinama. Godine 1837. utemeljen je Etrurski muzej, a 1839.godine i Egipatski muzej. A sve se to svakako dogodilo nakon uspijeha čitanja hijeroglifa, što je učinio Jean-Francois Champolion 1822.godine.
Nakon ukinuća Papinske države a po ujedinjenju Italije 1870. godine samim muzejima se predlaže dvostruk put razvija:konstantna razrada tradicionalne baštine i povećanje usmjerenosti prema naravi postojanja Crkve u svijetu. Tako je 1932.godine nastala Pinakoteka, a zahvaljujući vrećanju dijela umjetnina koje je ukrao Napoleon.
Podsjetimo se samo, povratak umjetnina je omogućen poslije Bečkog kongresa 1815.godine.

Trideset godina nakon otvaranja Pinakoteke, točnije 1960.godine, otvara se Dvorana grčkih originala, 1970.godine Gregoriano Profano i Pio Cristiano, da bi 1973.godine bili ovamo smješteni Misijsko-etnološki muzej i Zbirka suvremene umjetnosti.

Najnovija promjena je iz 1985.godne, kada se Povijesni muzej dijeli u dva dijela: Povijesni u starome smislu, koji se nalazi u Lateranu i Muzej papinskih kočija i automobila.

U kasnome srednjem vijeku papa hrvatskog porijekla Siksto V. daje Dominiku Fontani izgraditi sadašnju papinsku palaču(1589.-1590.). Tu palaču barok nije dirao iz jednostavnog razloga što su Siksto V. i Grgur XIII. izgradili palaču na Kvirinalu(zbog navodno svježag zraka), a koje su voljeli i koristili i pape poslije njih,počevši od Klementa VIII. nadalje.

Papa Urban VIII.pojačao je zidine i povećao im opseg koji i danas vidimo.

Konačni povratak u Vatikan dogodio se nakon ujedinjenja Italije 1870.godine u doba pape Pija IX.
Tako se Papinska država, od nekadašnjeg prostora koji je zauzimao ne samo pokrajnu Lazio, već i Umbriju, Marche i Romagnu,smanjila na današnji jedan četvorni kilometar.

U veljači 1929.godine, Lateranskim ugovorom utvrđuje se samostalnost i papinski suverenitet na području koje okružuje bazilika i zidine, tj.današnju Vatikansku državu.
Ta je država danas neutralna a sva njena su dobra međunarodno zaštićena.
Papa je tako ujedno i poglavar države i Crkve, imajući pod svoju i "vladu" države Vatikan zvanu imenom Rimska kurija. Na tom državnom polju najznačajnije je Državno tajništvo.
Vatikan ima oko 900 stanovnika, od čega 200 žena.
Država je duga 1045 metara i široka 850 metara.
Švicarska garda u svojim redovima rijetko prelazi brojku od 150.
U Vatikanskom gradu radi oko 1300 zaposlenika koji ne stanuju u Vatikanu, već u njega dolaze raditi iz Rima i okoline.
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