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Home Archive for 12/14/17
Six very different things to do in Paris this Christmas
Pine trees are displayed in a giant snow globe under the Eiffel Tower in central Paris. Photo: AFP
Looking for Christmas activities in the City of Light? Here are some tips from people who know a thing or two about life in Paris.
If you're stuck for something to do in Paris this Christmas then check out these six original ideas for activities on offer (followed by four classics). 
Pastry hopping
If you're looking for some one-off seasonal treats, then hit the city's patisseries.
"The city's leading pastry chefs and chocolate makers pull out all the stops at the holidays, creating limited edition cakes, macarons, ganaches, pralines - you name it - and there's no activity I prefer more than taste-testing my way around town" 

"But if time doesn't allow it, a small but excellent selection of treats will be carried at Fou de Pâtisserie, the multi-pastry boutique that sells pastries, chocolates, jams, madeleines and other indulgences, from a handful of top chefs."
Photo: Fou de Pâtisserie/Facebook
Dig into some oysters
Christmas time is synonymous in Paris with oyster-time"
"Sip champagne and slurp oysters in style at Le Dome cafe where Picasso used to dine. Or hit up Le Baron Rouge on a Sunday afternoon before 4pm when the oyster man from Arcachon shucks plates of them for around €6. Wash them down with one of their house whites. You’ll be cheek-by-jowl with the locals but that should get you into the festive spirit."
See a Christmas concert in a church

 "One of the most festive and satisfying things to do in Paris at holiday time". 
"My favorite venue is Saint Chapelle church (in the first arrondissement), which this holiday season will feature Masterworks of Sacred Music including interpretations of Ave Maria by Schubert and Gounod plus music by Verdi and Mozart" 
"Not only do you get to listen to the gorgeous music, you also get to savor the astounding beauty of the church and its brilliant stained glass windows."

Doni from the Girls Guide to Paris blog recommends the sounds of Christmas gospel at the beautiful Les Billettes Church in the Marais on Christmas Eve, or the Christmas Concert which includes the Ave Maria on the 25th at the gothic wonder, St. Severin. 
Stylish lights on the Avenue Montaigne
The guides over at Savoir Faire Paris suggest a stroll down the chic Avenue Montaigne near the Champs-Elysées. 
"These are the most stylish Christmas decorations in the city, and offer the true essence of Paris at Christmas time," they say.
Of course, if you absolutely insist on joining the hordes, you won't be far from the Champs-Elysées if you want to take a look at its offerings as well.
Quirky installations at the Bon Marché
Kate Goodbody, who runs the More Native than the Natives blog, says shopping is the best part of the festive season. 
"Le Bon Marché (pictured below) is renowned for its long history and more recently its quirky installations. Therefore it is hands down one of the best places to get into the festive spirit with some retail therapy as well as the perfect place to Instagram," she tells The Local.  
"When you've finished with purchasing presents you can nip over to the Grande Epicerie to marvel at the wide range of food they have on offer. I like to pop in on the odd occasion to treat myself to something frivolous. Head downstairs to their incredible wine cellar to pick up a bottle of something special for the big day too."
Photo: AFP
Christmas shopping at the Paris Saint-Ouen flea market
"Les Puces de Saint-Ouen" is known as one of the largest antiques markets in the world. 
The Seine-Saint-Denis tourism board calls it "a perfect place to pick up a present for the hard to please and fashionista hipsters with the help of antique trade dealers".
Find unique gifts ideas from antique jewellery, vintage clothes and accessories, tableware, old books and records... you name it, it's probably there. 
It's open Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays 10am to 5.30pm, and is close to the Porte de Clignancourt Métro station. 
Photo: AFP
The old favourites
Markets at the Champs-Elysées
On the most famous avenue in Paris, this Christmas market attracts thousand of visitors each year with its charming wooden chalets selling regional food specialities, decorations and toys. 
It's already opened, and kicks off at 10:30am until midnight each day (and until 1am on Friday and Saturday evenings). It closes on December 24th. 
Department store windows 
The Galeries Lafayette (pictured below) is a top tip from Richard Nahem at Eye Prefer Paris.
"This year it has a white out effect where all the window displays plus the mammoth Christmas tree in the store are made of white paper cutouts," he says. 
"For more alternative holiday displays without the crowds, see the opulent windows at Hermes and quirky off beat vitrines at Le Bon Marche."
Photo: AFP
Ice skating at the Grand Palais
What better was to spend a chilly Paris afternoon than on ice skates?
Tramuta from Lost in Cheeseland says there are none better than that at the Grand Palais (pictured below), while Yanique Francis from the My Parisian Life blog recommends the one at the City Hall (Métro Hotel de Ville).
Trocadero markets
And lastly, Corey Frye from the Localers walking tour group highly recommends the Christmas market at Trocadero. 
"It offers the most interesting international food stalls with ethnic cuisine you'll struggle to find in any other market. Expect Slovakian tea, Russian soup, and Turkish and Croatian delicacies," he added. 
"France is well represented too, with a stall dedicated to oysters and champagne, and another serving up handmade artisanal macarons (a must!)."
It'll open on the 15th of December and run until the 3rd of January, following a two-year hiatus for renovation works.
The story behind France's 'little saints' of Christmas
All photos: AFP
Provence in the south of France adds a unique touch to its Christmas celebration with traditional "santons", little figurines with a big history.
So what is a Santon? And how do you pronounce it?
A Santon (sounds like sonn-tonn) is a small, handmade clay figurine.
The characters typically represent vegetable sellers, bakers, men selling chestnuts, local dignitaries, or other personalities from daily village life. 
And they're quite little indeed, usually between two and 15 centimetres in height. 
Where do I find them?
In nativity scenes all over France - but especially in the south. They originated in Provence. More on this later.
Are these a new thing?
Hardly. They've been around in various forms for hundreds and hundreds of years, but first took a clay form at the end of the 18th century thanks to the handiwork of Marseille-born artist Jean-Louis Lagnel.
He is generally credited with inventing the product as we know it today, although it wasn't until after his death in 1822 that they were called "Santons". Indeed, in Lagnel's time the figurines weren't heated up during the production process, so didn't last nearly as long as they do today. 
Hang on, the end of the 18th century? This smells of the French revolution!
Indeed, well spotted. The French revolution saw nativity scenes banned and churches closed, so making the little saints was a way of secretly maintaining the religious traditions - at risk of being guillotined, of course. 
The word Santon literally translates as "Little Saint", but there is just as much a focus on the other characters in a village, as well as Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus. 
These nativity scenes are supposed to be representative of the ideal Provencal village.
How do you make a Santon?
With great patience, at least according to the ten-minute video below (which is well worth a watch).
If you haven't got a spare ten mins, here's the brief version:
An artist - called a santonnier - carves the figurine from clay, makes a two-piece plaster cast of it, then makes several more figurines from the plaster form. 
The Santons are then dried, thrown in the kiln, and then hand painted, usually in very bright colours. 
Santonniers often go to great lengths to make the backgrounds of the nativity scene too, including making buildings, using local produce for trees and plants, and putting clothes on the figurines. 
Can I see them being made somewhere?
Yes, of course. One option comes via the Fouque family in Provence, who've been making Santons for four generations. They open up their workshop in Provence and will even give you a guided tour in English. 
And lastly... what if I want more?
Then check out the annual Santon Fair in Marseille, which has been going on since 1803. It's called the Foire aux Santons, and runs until December 31st this year. 
Why not take a walking tour of the fair via the YouTube video below? Enjoy (and Merry Christmas). 
IN PICTURES: The best Christmas markets to visit in France this year
Photo: AFP
The Christmas market on the Champs-Elysées has been cancelled but there are many, many more worth visiting around France this year, particularly if you head east.
Marchés de Noël have been popular in Alsace and northern France since the 16th century, and nowadays France boasts the second largest number of Christmas markets in Europe.
 
They are famous for selling regional produce and are filled with yummy treats from mulled wine, to Alsace Bredele biscuits and Flemish style waffles.
 
With the Champs-Elysées Christmas market cancelled because it was deemed too tacky for the cultured City of Light, here's what we think are the cheeriest, the prettiest and the quirkiest of the marchés de Noël around France.
 
PARIS: L’Arche de Noël à la Défense
 
This is the largest of all the Christmas markets in Paris and certainly one of the merriest. Its 350 or so stalls are packed full of festive decorations, original presents and tasty treats. Set in the heart of the busy business district, the Christmas village makes for a quirky contrast with the tall skyscrapers. Open until December 28th.
 
 
MONTBELIARD
 
The picturesque city of Montbéliard in the France's eastern Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region holds one of the country's most stunning Christmas markets. Here, visitors will find themselves fully immersed in festive spirit, with the craft market filled with handmade, traditional products, the festive light display and illuminated streets. And for the adventurous, there's even an ice rink. Open until December 24th.
 
 
AMIENS
 
Amiens Christmas market is renowned for its local produce: sugary delights like macaroons and tuiles amienoises (almond biscuits) as well as glass, soaps, and angora pullovers. But what makes Amiens really stand out is the spectacular "son et lumière" (light and sound) show projected onto the town’s gothic cathedral every night. Open to December 30th.
 
 
STRASBOURG
 
This is the oldest "marché de Noël" in France, dating back to the 16th century. Set in the quaint, medieval old town, it has 300 stalls, making it one of the largest markets in Europe. The heart of the festivities is Place de la Cathédrale, in front of the gothic cathedral. Open until December 30th.
 
Photo: AFP
 
 
REIMS
 
Reims Christmas market, in the Champagne region of France, is one of the best for pure yuletide joy and Christmas cheer. They keep their market lively with winter sports at the dry ski slope and street performances from carollers, jazz bands, jugglers and organ grinders. 140 little wooden chalets will be selling local crafts, as well as delicacies from the region, so expect a lot of champagne. Open to December 27th.
 
Photo: AFP
 
 
LICQUES
 
This town in the Nord Pas-de-Calais region wins for originality. Here the focus is on fine festive food, especially top quality poultry. Known as the “Fête de la dinde,” their Christmas food market includes a parade of live turkeys through the centre of town. This is followed by a swig of the local liqueur, Licquoise, before buyers personally select their Christmas dinner. Open December 9th to 11th.
 
Photo: AFP
 
MULHOUSE Les étoffes de Noël
 
Mulhouse has a celebrated tradition of textiles (étoffes) and every Christmas they create a new festive cloth which is then used to decorate the market. Fairy lights, chalets and stalls create an Alsatian winter wonderland where, thanks to Mulhouse’s location near the Swiss and German borders, it’s no surprise to find stalls selling crafts from Mulhouse alongside traditional Swiss and Vosgien gifts. Open until December 27th.
 
Photo: Vincent Desjardins
 
LILLE
 
This northern city has one of the most popular Christmas markets in France, attracting 900,000 visitors every year. Almost 100 stalls in the central Place Rihour sell traditional goodies like Maroilles cheese, chicory pâté and babeluttes (soft caramels). In the nearby Grand Place, a 50-metre-high ferris wheel offers fantastic views over Lille’s Flemish-Renaissance architecture, festooned with sparkling Christmas fairy lights. Open until December 27th.
 
 
ARRAS
 
This charming town in the north of France is the perfect setting for a magical Christmas market. 90 stalls are set up in the Grand Place where scents of mulled wine mingle with hot chocolate and Flemish waffles – a local specialty. There are plenty of musical events and street performances from fire-eaters and jugglers, as well as a daily visit from Santa Claus. Open until December 30th.
 
 
COLMAR. This is one of the prettiest Christmas markets thanks to its almost entirely pedestrianized town centre, medieval Alsace architecture and annual decorations competition. Twinkling fairy lights and glowing Rudolphs bedeck balconies and shopfront windows alike. The children’s market in Petite Venise includes stalls selling handcrafted toys and a giant letter box for posting a wish-list to Santa. Open until December 31st.
 
 
ROUEN
 
The gothic cathedral in the historic part of town is the perfect backdrop to the Rouen Christmas market. Plenty of little stalls sell delicious mulled wine, local specialties and other typical Christmas goods. There’s a whole part of the market dedicated to children and you can show off your ice skating skills on an outdoor rink. Open until December 31st.
 
 
BORDEAUX
 
The Bordeaux Christmas market has become a holiday tradition in the region. Over 150 exhibitors sell unique gifts and creations from all over the world. Stroll around the illuminated market, sip on a cup of mulled wine and enjoy some delicious treats. Open until December 26th.
 
 
METZ
 
By some accounts France's second most visited Christmas market after Strasbourg, Metz in the Grand Est is a must-visit. With six of the city's squares filled with stalls dedicated to celebrating the festive period, it's impossible not to get into the festive spirit. Enjoy traditional treats like the merry-go-round, a walk through the magical forest or stock up on gastronomic Christmas essentials at the city market hall. Open until 30th December.
 
 
RIQUEWIHR
Officially one of France's most beautiful villages, Riquewihr's fairytale atmosphere makes it the ideal location to celebrate the festive season. Wander the medieval cobbled streets and see the village at its most stunning. You'll find a Christmassy world of tasting sessions, concerts, exhibitions and delicious food. Open until December 25th.


Photo: massonforstock/Depositphotos
If you're looking for some original and slightly wacky Gallic gifts to bring home from France this Christmas, here are a few to choose from.
"French letters" (with chat up lines)


"Do you want to see my baguette?", "Want to see the Eiffel Tower?", "Liberté, egalité, sexualité". The succinct messages written on these Made in France condoms (or "French letters" as they used to be called) could save you the effort of trying to chat someone up.
They are doing a roaring trade at the Bring France Home store in the Marais (3 Rue de Birague) which offers all kinds of authentic "100 percent Made in France" souvenirs.

Macron snow globe

Why not commemorate the year that France elected its youngest president by giving your nearest and dearest a Macron-themed snow globe? 
The offbeat gift has already proved so popular with the French and foreigners alike that Les Parisettes -- the concept store behind the snow globe -- sold out of the first batch within weeks.
So, if you're keen to get your hands on one before Christmas, you'd better get your order in quickly.  
Photo: Les Parisettes

Grow your own mushroom kit
Do you know an aspiring gardener who is sadly lacking their own plot of land to practice their skills?
If so, a pack of ready-to-grow oyster mushrooms from French start-up "Pret a Pousser" might be the perfect gift. 
Top tip: They're ideal for giving an omelette some extra flavour. 

Photo: Pret a pousser

A sculpture of a French brain
France has produced some pretty famous intellectuals over the years so who wouldn't want a French brain? This sculpture below by artist Patricia Birn is on sale at Bring France Home in the Marais for a cool €2,500. 

Magnetic French poetry
Whether you know someone who believes themselves to be the next Baudelaire or have a friend who spends a lot of time in the kitchen, this set of magnetic French poetry will give them the perfect chance to show off their literary prowess on the front of their fridge. 

Photo: Paper Tiger

A Gallic bow tie
This next one is ideal for any dedicated followers of fashion in your life. French company Colonel Moutarde has a wide selection of bow ties with contemporary designs and even offers a made-to-measure service for any perfectionists out there. 
And it's not just for adults, Colonel Moutarde also has a baby range, so why not introduce the little ones to the joys of a dapper wardrobe early on?
Photo: Colonel Moutarde

French-themed gift sets
If you're struggling to settle on any one gift for the Francophile in your life then why not hedge your bets and give several? 
French company Le Cadeau Francais offers a selection of gift sets, including some aimed at men or women and others themed according to regions of France. 
To give you an idea of what you'll find, one of the men's sets includes Cognac, olive tapenade, coffee, a mug and toffees, which all come packed neatly in a Paris-themed box, of course. 

Photo: Le Cadeau Francais

Boxer shorts with Paris metro map design
It could be the perfect gift for that one male friend who just can't figure out the Paris metro. Just as long as he remembers to plan his journey before he puts them on, that is.

Photo: souvenirparis.com

A Gallic hangover cure
What would you do for a hangover cure that really works over the festive period? A French company claims to have come up with the perfect solution to over indulging in spirits this Christmas. The headache cure made from pear and plant extracts is effective within an hour, its creators say.


Santon crib figurines
These small, handmade clay figurines originate from Provence and are used in France to populate nativity scenes. 
So for the people in your life that truly love Christmas traditions, why not introduce them to a French one and add to the magic of the season?
The story behind France's 'little saints' of Christmas

A scented candle that smells like...Paris
French company Kerzon had the original idea of launching a range of scented candles designed to smell like a walk though Paris.
The Flaneries a Paris (strolls through Paris) collection includes Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Jardin du Luxembourg and Place des Vosges among others (note there's no Metro scented candle), and could make the perfect gift for anyone who dreams of being transported back to the French capital. 
Photo: Kerzon

Christmas-themed beret
It might come as news that there are several takes on the Christmas-themed beret, with some featuring reindeer antlers (see below) and others with slightly more subtle Christmas motifs knitted on top. 
Sure, it might seem silly, but after a few glasses of vin chaud (mulled wine), your relatives will be fighting over who gets to wear it. 

Photo: Shein

Monsieur Barbier shaving set 
Encourage the men in your life to keep their facial hair perfectly groomed with this hip shaving set by French company Monsieur Barbier. 

Photo: Monsieur Barbier

Charentaise slippers
Charentaise slippers might not be representative of the best of French fashion but one thing's for sure, they'll certainly keep their owner warm in winter.
And let's be honest, that's what really matters to most people at this time of year. 

Photo: Sophie/Flickr

French mustard gift set
The original Maison Maille still makes traditional Dijon mustard which it sells through boutiques in Dijon, Paris, London, New York, and Bordeaux.
And at Christmas time, they offer gift boxes which will make the perfect present for any keen chefs or condiment lovers in your life. 
Photo: Irene/Flickr

Fine wine
Give the (much-coveted) gift of the perfect glass of fine wine with a new Nespresso-like machine called "D-Vine" from French startup 10-Vins. 
The D-Vine machine can claim to be a Hi-Tech sommelier that can serve up the perfect Merlot or Sauvignon Blanc in less than a minute.
Each vial of wine contains an electronic chip which transmits information to the machine that will create the correct temperature for the wine to be served as well as sending a quick description of the wine to your smartphone. 
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